Wal-Mart: The Global Citizen

As a counterpoint to the progressives who love to hate Wal-Mart, The Economist this week presents the argument that Wal-Mart is a good global citizen.

They don’t couch it in those terms. The article discusses the recent spate of worker activity in South China (the Pearl River Delta, home to Shenzhen and many factories in China). The Economist’s ever-global, ever-capitalist position is that as “pay and protest” rise in China, the whole world stands to benefit. Cheap labor created a working mass and a global economy. It put money in people’s pockets. As they ask for more money, they’ll also spend more money. That spending will be on goods created outside of China as well as inside. Bringing up living standards worldwide benefits the entire world economy. We stayed at the Marriott on the South China Sea, and were one of the only foreign families in the place. China’s people getting richer means they’ll spend more on imports and help the trade balance and the economy in the states.

Further, although Chinese workers have apparently not always been as docile and hard-working as the foreign press makes them appear, state-owned companies have quickly quashed any whispers of dissension. But when citizens complain to foreign companies, the government allows them to yell slogans toward the foreign press to their hearts’ content. Possibly we are watching US foreign policy toward China work itself out - growing capitalism is lessening the oppression coming from a government dictatorship.

When we lived in St. Louis, I stood firmly against Wal-Mart and their practice of exploiting low-income workers across the globe. Mockingly, a friend gave us a Wal-Mart gift card when Lilly was born. As the company already had the money anyway, we redeemed it for children’s t-shirts and iron-on transfers. Their 2-year-old received T-shirts saying “Daddy Hates Unions” for his birthday (and, as I recall, wore them).

Recognizing my limits as an economist, I don’t claim to be sharing anything groundbreaking here. I’m just saying that maybe I can trust the world market a bit more than I thought, and that I may start shopping at Wal-Mart again.

So Far, So Good

We dropped them off 10 minutes late this morning. We got a phone call because Lilly was still in her classroom 25 minutes after school ended this afternoon (but we were right on time for school ending at 3:30!). But otherwise, the first day of school seems to have gone quite well. Nobody made any new friends, but both kids like their teachers very much and are eager to return to school tomorrow.

the walk to school

Myself, on the other hand, I'm beginning to feel the stress of moving. Choosing a place to live has been surprisingly stressful. We are comfortable in the hotel, a 3-bedroom serviced apartment. But we will not be allowed to hang anything on the walls or personalize the place in any way. It will feel like a hotel the entire time we live here. The other option is a villa up the street from the school. Its a bit dated and has a tiny little yard, but it has an amazing terrace looking directly out over the sea to Hong Kong. After much debating, we've settled on staying put because we have a short-term lease here, and can drop everything when the foreign service calls. The choice between convenience (the perfect place NOW) and personalization (the better place in 3 months) was difficult, and still feels a bit icky.

Life here is beginning to feel overwhelming.

Without an ayi, I need to do my own laundry and take my kids everywhere with me. I know, parents in America will have no sympathy for me. But this includes walking to the grocery store and carrying all of the groceries back with me; parent-teacher conferences next week; running small loads of laundry and then hanging them to air dry - all with an infant strapped to my chest, and often at least one child walking slowly at my side. In a serviced apartment, I hardly feel I can justify hiring an ayi. But with my husband planning to travel 50% of the time, I may well need the help.

Without any friends, next week may be difficult. Dave will leave Monday morning and return Friday afternoon, just as I hope to leave for Shanghai. I have no doubt that friends will come, but the first few weeks will inevitably feel rather isolated. And with one or more children always in tow, jumping right in becomes much more challenging.

Shenzhen is lovely. We live on the very edge of town, on a peninsula peeking out into the South China Sea. Traffic is slow and rather quiet, people smile on the street, and flowers and plants grow everywhere. This is the sub-tropics, where sudden downfalls are common and the thick humidity will not leave the air until late fall. My impression is that we have two seasons here - a long, wet summer and a long, dry fall. The temperature will not drop below 50 degrees, and the rain will stop almost entirely. It should be truly lovely here in a few months. Flowers and plants grow likely crazy, and on a walk this morning we came across the largest snail I have ever seen. Check this guy out!

Passed the Test

A few things passed their first tests today.

#1: The Black-Out Curtains
While Annika still woke up at around 5:30am, her sisters slept until 8:20. I hope that whoever created black-out curtains got a gold star for it.

#2: The Hotel Room
We moved into the wrong room last night - a 3-bedroom, rather than the 2-bedroom we reserved. But this morning, the 3-bedroom didn't seem so bad. It does have the girls sleeping as far from our bedroom as possible, which is a definite downside - especially if we ever want baby Annika out of our room. But otherwise, the set-up is quite comfortable. Dave talked the management down in price to a reasonable monthly rate, and so we will consider staying in this hotel (cum serviced apartment, should we stay) long term.

#3: The School
Sophia had an enrollment interview this afternoon, to determine her spot in the school. Taking place the day before school begins, I assumed this was a formality and put no stock in it. So, when the staff informed me that Sophia is a lovely child and a good fit for the school, and will be at the top of the Waiting List, I was floored. I explained that no one had told me we were on a waiting list. She very patiently pointed out that no one told me Sophia was even admitted... because she wasn't, yet.
This caused a bit of stress and prayer. And when I changed my language with Sophia from you'll be here tomorrow to probably next week, I looked the administrator in the eye. She nodded her head.
And then, she worked some magic. I got a call a few hours later saying that they had maneuvered their program a bit, and could fit our preschooler in. She can start tomorrow, jettisoning their entire interview process.
Other things have impressed me already - no school uniforms, a community vibe, meet the teacher night the evening before class starts. But this one left me pleased as punch.

#4: The Teachers
Meet the Teacher Night began at 5:00. We were on the grounds at 4:59. We went straight to Lilly's classroom, because she was still excited and "only a little bit scared." We found the class lists, and then searched for her classroom. Her grip on my hand grew tighter with each step, and she began to shrink into my skirt as we entered her building. Stiff-armed, I pulled her strongly into the classroom. Mrs. B was on her knees on the carpet, talking animatedly to another student. Lilly shrunk a bit further. Then Mrs. B turned to us, and I introduced myself. Mrs B introduced herself to Lilly, buzzing her hand in the air but promising not to sting. And then Lilly introduced herself, using her full name. This had stuck in Mrs B's head, because it is a truly fantastic name. And then she asked if Lilly knew the book Lilly and the Purple Plastic Purse. Her hand loosened as she explained that we have the book on our shelf. When we found her name posted on her cubby, she let go of my hand to touch the nametag. A few more minutes, and we left for Sophia's classroom, where they were playing with playdough. Sophia barely spoke to us the entire time, making paintings for her teachers instead. She was sold instantly, but Mrs B passed the test as well.

As we walked away, Lilly said that she's excited about school tomorrow.

And then,
I did meet the teacher tonight, but I didn't get to meet any of the kids tonight. So I'm still a little bit scared. Oh, a ramp! Can I run up it?

So, tomorrow will be another test for her. But I think she'll pass.

Moving Day, I

It seems true quite often - that on moving day, everything goes horribly wrong. From the vantage point of the couch in our hotel in Shenzhen, it all feels like water under the bridge. But a few hours ago...

1:30AM, Tuesday morning
Dave and I are still packing. The airline has given us a total allowance of 80kg. That is 176 pounds for 5 people to live off of for about 1 month. It took more creativity than we had on reserve by that time of night, and so we soon called it quits.

6:30AM, Tuesday morning
At this time of morning, the sun was up. And so, Annika, Sophia and I were up as well. I'm hoping the black-out curtains in this hotel will live up to their name, and give us all a late morning! I got right to the packing.

9:45AM
The girls are packed in the car with our friend and driver, Jordon. They've been waiting out there for 20 minutes, because I can't get things finished enough to walk away for a few hours. Finally I run to the car, and arrive ten minutes late for our 10:00 doctor appointment.

10:40AM
Annika needed one blood test for her Medical Clearance. Once Dave gets the call, everything must be in order for our family to go directly to post. Annika's paperwork was entirely in order, except for her weak Du. Hoping this would be a quick job, I brought everyone with me to the hospital, and carried a long list of stops afterward. We sat in the waiting room for 30 minutes, because no one could figure out what the test was or how to order it. Once it came, things began happening. We were all shuffled into a small room, where they explained that at 3 months, an infant is too young to have blood drawn from a syringe. Rather, they enter a needle directly into her vein and allow the blood to drip out at its own pace. This will take over 5 minutes, they explained. It still makes me feel queazy to think about it, and it made me cry to hover over a baby in such pain for so long. Especially as her sisters beat each other in the background.

12:00NOON
After billing problems, we finally left the hospital. It should come as no surprise that the billing problems were never resolved. We picked up baby formula delivered from the states by a good friend (thank again, Deanna!) and headed to lunch. Dave promised to meet us at 12:30.

12:20PM
We arrived at the restaurant.

12:30PM
Sophia explains that she needs to go pee. Annika begins crying incessantly. Sophia can not go pee alone, because the restaurant only has squat pots. I can not possibly leave a crying baby in the middle of a restaurant, only watched by her 4 year old sister. So Sophia has to wait until Daddy arrives - any minute, we are sure.

12:40PM
Annika is buckled into her car seat, and I am swinging her in large arcs. This is the only way to keep her quiet, poor girl. Sophia was standing on her chair. But now the chair is lying on its back, and her face has hit the floor. The staff have run to her (and I am swinging a car seat, and so unable to move swiftly), so I can not get through to her. Hurt, scared, and now embarassed. Supermom that I am, I pick her up to sing to her without missing a beat in the car seat swing for Annika.

12:50PM
Dave arrives to a quiet and orderly table. Quiet because both girls have been summarily scolded, warned (and completely convinced) that any noise from either of them will result in their eating dinner at another table.

1:30PM
Another stop at a friend's house, picking up Lilly's old crib. Mei Mei will need it, so it must travel soon to Shenzhen.

2:30PM
The girls begin quiet time, and I run a few last errands. When I return to Shanghai, it will be late on the night before movers arrive. Anything I want packed ought to be in the house when I arrive, so that shopping needed to happen today. Jordon zipped me around town, and I accomplished nearly everything.

4:30PM
After good-byes to Wendy, and all of the folks in our lane, we took off. Five large bags, 3 car seats, 2 strollers, and 8 carry-ons.

6:00PM
We sit to eat at an airport cafe. Nothing tasted good, but we had a lovely view of the runway.

6:30PM
Our flight is schedule to depart.

7:15PM
Our flight departed

9:30PM
We landed in Shenzhen.
We realize that Shanghai is quite a Western city, and that we have landed in China. People push and crowd. There are no Western toilets - only squat pots, with suspiciously wet floors surrounding. But a driver is waiting, and helps wheel the luggage out so we can carry our tired girls.

11:30PM
We are finally in our hotel room, for the night. We've reserved a 2-bedroom serviced apartment for the rest of the month, but apparently someone else came earlier tonight. So they gave it away. We're not sure the purpose of our credit card security deposit, if they did not plan to hold our room. So, no unpacking this evening. Just digging through all 13 pieces of luggage for the bits and pieces we need to make it through the night. Tomorrow, we will move again. But hopefully after a very good night's sleep had by all.

Overall, really, we can count the day as a success. Once we were joined by Daddy, things began to work much smoother. We kept both Jordon and Wendy busy all day long, making me so thankful for their constant help! The transition into our new home in Shenzhen will certainly be more difficult, without either of them around to help. And now, tomorrow each of our girls has the chance to meet their teachers and see their classrooms. This will be the make-or-break for Lilly, so pray that it goes well.

12:47AM, Wednesday morning
I'm exhausted, and going to sleep.

Heading South

The verdict is in. Uncle H-- informed us on Wednesday evening that we will, in fact, be moving to Shenzhen. We stepped on a flight to the white sand beaches of Hainan Island early the next morning, and returned to Shanghai this evening. Our flight for Shenzhen leaves at 6:30 on Tuesday night, and school starts on Thursday.

All of that within 1 week's time.

I've got a crazy To Do List for the next day, the next week, and the next month. Tomorrow will be a bit nutty, but not actually as overwhelming as one might think. We will move directly into a serviced apartment in Shenzhen, one within walking distance of the grocery store. I will return to Shanghai in a few weeks to pack up the house, and hand the keys over to the landlord. As I'll travel without kids, I'll be able to race around town at breakneck speed and checks loads of things off of the list.

So, the focus for the next week is to make this transition as smooth as possible for the girls. Questions like how to keep the girls amused over the next few days, while I'm busy shopping and packing and how to fit the moses basket and antique rocker onto the airplane plague me.

But, as far as moves go, this one seems rather simple. The girls are already enrolled in the right school - one which seems very community focused, having already invited our family to join others at a local restaurant on Wednesday night. The school lies inside a complex where we can afford to live, and so I only plan to view homes inside that complex. There's also a church and a library in the complex, all of which make me think that it will have a built-in community as well. Plus, simply living within walking distance of the school and church mean that we can easily spend casual time with the people we meet.

Bonus points, that we will be within walking distance of the ferry to Hong Kong.

Further bonus points that we don't anticipate living there past February. I will not make the same mistake as in this home: We will rent our home assuming we will live there for a year; we will have a comfortable guest room, and plenty of space for Mei Mei to move in. However, I don't feel the pressure of needing to fit in so strongly. It feels more like an extended vacation than like a move.

I believe the girls are approaching it that way as well. Lilly asked me recently if, since we are moving now, can she please invite her cousin to her birthday party? I explained that we'll still be in China, and not yet in America.

Lilly: So, when will we move to America, and live near Jack and William?
Lynne: I think probably after Christmas. Until then, we'll go to school in Shenzhen.
Lilly: (reassured) Okay.

They've been prepared for a summer move for quite some time now. I think that they're not thrown by this news, because they've been expecting it all along. As Washington DC means very little to them as a place, why should Shenzhen be a scary stopping point?

Hyperventilating

Still no decision on Shenzhen, although Dave will formally interview for the role tomorrow morning. This means that a decision by Friday is possible. But Dave's boss advises that once the contract to consult has been accepted, the two companies still face negotiations which could take a few weeks.

So, we stand to lose the lease on our current home.

Lease runs out on Aug. 30th, and we have yet to tell them we want to renew. Should we say yes, and immediately face a 2-month penalty for canceling? Should we say no, and be forced to leave on Sep. 1?

Here's the best potential scenario I can come up with:

Because of confidence in the move to Shenzhen, we lose the lease on this house.
Because that confidence is not amazingly strong, we do not begin school in Shenzhen on the first day - Aug. 12th.
Because things have not yet finalized, we begin school in Shanghai on Aug. 23rd.
Even better if we are forced to move out of this house before a decision has been made - maybe live in a hotel for a week?
Move to Shenzhen after school has begun in both places, causing all sorts of transitional angst for our kids.
And then get the call to the October class, and move to DC.

Likely? Absolutely not. But still keeping me awake at night.

Hot! Hot! Hot!

We reveled in beautiful summer weather for weeks, with blue sky highs in the mid 80s and lows in the low 70s. We ate many dinners on the balcony, and had many dates at outdoor restaurants. I wore jeans sometimes! Its been an amazing summer, so I can hardly complain that the heat has finally hit Shanghai.

Yesterday had a high temperature of 98F / 37C with up to 95% humidity. The air conditioner and the shade trees keep the downstairs of our house pretty comfortable, and the swimming pool keeps us happy. But our bedroom sits perched on top of the house, with large windows flooding it with light. The poor a/c unit in that room struggled to keep up last night, and each of the 5 members of our family sleeping in the master bed kicked off the covers while we slept.

The biggest benefit that the EXPO has brought to Shanghai is a summer of blue skies and white fluffy clouds. But the summer sun rises between 4:30 and 5:00 in this town, and so the house is awake around 7am. Good preparation for school in a few weeks, and the end of my lazy days sleeping until 8 or 9 every morning.