Our plane left late last night. We were scheduled for a 7:40pm departure from Shanghai to Chengdu. But the typhoon strength winds and rains which beat Shanghai yesterday afternoon left no one surprised that flights were delayed late into the night.
One benefit of flying long trips with relative frequency is access to lounges. So we spent a long evening in the Shanghai Airlines business class lounge at the Pudong Airport, gorging the girls on fried rice and juice and people watching. We had plenty of time to people watch.
Culture can be a surprisingly difficult thing to get your head around. I have always felt difficult to offend - as an American, my offense radar is pretty low. But my American culture beacon still blinks brightly, expecting everyone around to meet my low standard. In China, this rarely happens. So as we waited in the business class lounge last night, we sat near a very loud group of tables. The people at each table sat no more than a few feet apart from each other, but still chose to elevate the dynamics of their conversation. This loud conversation quickly began to feel raucous and rude to us - like a drunken BBQ on an American lake. We quietly discussed our judgment - these people must be newly rich, having clearly not learned any manners. Its amazing how people here just don’t consider the people around them.
But soon the entire room turned to watch an even more noisy conversation. On the other side of the lounge, one individual held a very heated conversation with a woman working for the airline. She was soon accompanied by security and plenty of people talking on little walkie-talkies. The angry man yelled frequently, but he was quiet whenever the walkie-talkies spoke.
At first, we dismissed the angry man as another person without much sense. And we dismissed the onlooking room and occasional participation by the onlookers as typical Chinese gawkers - people here love nothing more than to watch, and take sides in a fight. We became increasingly concerned as the argument did not let up, and the people in the room did not look away.
Soon the man next to us - the one we had judged as uneducated and newly rich - used English to ask if we could understand what was happening. He then explained that Shanghai Airlines had delayed his flight over 4 hours, with no explanation or new plans. No one knew what to do, and felt quite angry after such a long wait. Our newfound sympathy for this man and his compatriots led to a lovely conversation with him. He had traveled extensively across the world as a professor of environmental protection, and had done much work in the United States.
We enjoyed his company, and immediately felt humbled by our assumptions. The people in this room did not act without manners or class. They acted as Chinese people - and nothing more or less.
Our flight eventually delayed to 11:30pm with an expected arrival in Chengdu of 2:30 in the morning. We gave up the wait and stayed in the airport hotel, hopping the first plane out this morning.
Friday, July 31, 2009
Saturday, July 25, 2009
Loosening the One Child Policy
The wait for children adopted from China continues to grow, and this primarily because China has fewer children needing to be adopted. The loosening of the one child policy no doubt has a role in this. Parents who have no siblings and live in rural areas have long been allowed two children. But now, these same type of parents living in urban areas are actively encouraged to have two children. A new policy in Shanghai plans to proactively encourage young couples to have two children, by visiting their home and handing out literature. Such a shift in policy!
I only found references to this in British papers - The Times and The Telegraph, which is also quoted below.
I only found references to this in British papers - The Times and The Telegraph, which is also quoted below.
China begins lifting strict one-child policy
China has taken the first step towards ending its controversial one-child policy by encouraging urban couples in Shanghai to have two children.
By Malcolm Moore in Shanghai
Published: 4:51PM BST 24 Jul 2009
The easing of restrictions comes in response to concern about economic problems caused by the country's ageing population. Shanghai is actively promoting the two-child policy as China tries to defuse a demographic time bomb caused by a shortage of young workers after 30 years of tough population growth restrictions.
If they are both single children themselves, husbands and wives in Shanghai are allowed to have two children.
While they have technically been allowed to do so before, the couples are now the target of a city-wide campaign to persuade them to make use of their extra allowance. They will receive home visits and leaflets to promote the benefits of a second child. The city government is worried about the rapidly rising number of elderly people and the resulting burden and drag on the Chinese economy. "We advocate eligible couples to have two kids because it can help reduce the proportion of ageing people and alleviate a workforce shortage in the future," said Xie Lingli, the head of Shanghai's family planning commission, to the China Daily newspaper.
The policy shift will prove popular. A recent survey released by the Shanghai family planning commission showed that more than half of 4,800 respondents, aged between 20 and 30, said would like a second child if the one-child policy was eased. China's one-child policy was originally designed to make sure the huge country's population remained at a manageable size, given the country's relatively low water, energy and food resources. Experts predicted earlier this week that there will be zero growth in China's population of 1.3 billion people by 2030.
The US-based Centre for Strategic and International Studies warned in April that mainland China will have more than 438 million people older than 60 by 2050, with more than 100 million aged 80 and above. The country will then have a population ratio of 1.6 working-age adults to support every person aged 60 and above, as compared with 7.7 in 1975. Shanghai's over-60 population already numbers more than three million, or more than one-fifth of residents. But that proportion is expected to rise to around one-third by 2020.
In China, the number of citizens over 65 is forecast to more than treble from 106 million today to 329 million by 2040. This will hugely increase the cost of pensions and impose a major constraint on the future growth of China's economy. Some economists have predicted that the stellar growth rates which have buoyed China's economy will become impossible with so many people set to leave the working population. The demographic crisis has been compounded by government population policy which is estimated to have resulted in the birth of 400 million fewer people.
Population forecasts have shown that if the current one-child policy continues China's children of today, at the time of marriage in 20 years, could face the task of taking care of four parents and as many as eight grandparents.
At last week's Venice Biennale, Chinese artist Xing Xin has locked himself in a iron box for 49 days to protest at the one child policy which has long been criticised on human rights grounds.
So True, So True
A recent issue of The Onion explained that they have sold their small paper to China. In an even more recent article, the new Chinese owner expresses his frustration at not knowing about the imminent death of the American newspaper industry. And the article below sounds like something the Chinese might say... or certainly think.
Nation Exhibits Strange Preoccupation With Manner In Which Food Is Processed
NEW YORK—For reasons too difficult to comprehend, the unnecessarily fretful and anxious nation of United States continues its odd obsession with the various processes by which raw ingredients are transformed into food fit for human consumption.
"I simply cannot understand this bizarre fascination with how food comes to be," Yu Wan Mei Amalgamated Salvage Fisheries CEO Zuo Xiabing, foremost innovator of the fish by-product business paradigm, told reporters. "What could be interesting about the way ingestible materials that are not originally tube-shaped are made to be tube-shaped? It's food! Enjoy!"
Zuo, who is correct, said the fact that there are American agencies devoted entirely to fixating on the proper dehydration, pasteurization, and freeze-drying of imported foods such as fish by-products indicates an unhealthy culture-wide obsession.
"Food makes you strong," Zuo said. "Stop worrying. Just chew and swallow. You will be fine."
"Eat, eat, eat," Zuo continued with an assuring smile. "It is good. Eat."
One can reportedly see where Zuo is coming from, especially because his imported fish products are made in the best, cleanest manufacturing facilities and continue to rise in both profit and quality.
"Remember," Zuo added, "Fish Time is Success Time."
Thursday, July 23, 2009
Why We Have a Driver
Below is excerpted from an email we received from the U.S. State Department, in a briefing on China.
TRAFFIC SAFETY AND ROAD CONDITIONS: While in a foreign country, U.S. citizens may encounter road conditions that differ significantly from those in the United States. The information below concerning China is provided for general reference only, and may not be totally accurate in a particular location or circumstance.
TRAFFIC SAFETY AND ROAD CONDITIONS: While in a foreign country, U.S. citizens may encounter road conditions that differ significantly from those in the United States. The information below concerning China is provided for general reference only, and may not be totally accurate in a particular location or circumstance.
The rate of traffic accidents in China, including fatal accidents, is among the highest in the world. Driving etiquette in China is still developing, and the average Chinese driver has less than five years’ experience behind the wheel. As a result, traffic is often chaotic, and right-of-way and other courtesies are often ignored. Travelers should note that cars and buses traveling in the wrong lanes frequently hit pedestrians and bicyclists. Pedestrians should always be careful while walking near traffic. Most traffic accident injuries involve pedestrians or cyclists who are involved in collisions or who encounter unexpected road hazards (e.g., unmarked open manholes). Foreigners with resident permits can apply for PRC driver licenses; however, liability issues often make it preferable to employ a local driver. Child safety seats are not widely available in China. Americans who wish to ride bicycles in China are urged to wear safety helmets meeting U.S. standards.
The number of American citizens involved in serious and deadly traffic accidents in Beijing is increasing. The Embassy strongly encourages travelers to exercise special caution when crossing streets in China's cities as pedestrians do not have the right-of-way. Please note that many taxi cabs do not have functioning seatbelts for passengers. If seatbelts are available, visitors are strongly encouraged to use them to reduce the risk of injury.
All drivers should be aware of the Chinese regulations regarding traffic accidents. Although a recent law states that drivers involved in a minor traffic accident should move their cars to the side of the road as soon as possible, in practice, the police often conduct investigations on the scene of the accident with the cars in their original positions. Americans who cannot express themselves clearly in Chinese should call the police as soon as possible after an accident and wait to move the cars until the police permit it.
If called to an accident, the police may take 20 minutes or longer to arrive. Once the police arrive, they will complete a preliminary investigation and arrange a time for you to report to the police station responsible for processing the accident scene. The police will prepare a written report in Chinese, describing the circumstances of the accident. They will present the report to you either at the scene, or more likely at the police station, and ask you to sign it verifying the details of the accident. Do not sign the report unless your Chinese is good enough to completely understand the report and you find it totally accurate. If you either do not understand it or believe it is partly or wholly inaccurate, you may either:
1. Write a disclaimer on the report to the effect that you cannot read or understand the report and cannot attest to the accuracy thereof, but are signing it because of the police requirement that you do so, and then sign, or;
2. Write your own version of the accident, in English, on the police form and indicate that your signature only attests to the accuracy of the English version.
Most incidents (such as an accident) will draw a crowd. Drivers should remain calm. A crowd will usually move in very close to the accident and participants. In many cases the bystanders consider themselves to be an ad hoc jury. They may call for money, usually from RMB 100 to 1,000, to be paid by the party they consider at fault. The amount is not necessarily relevant to the amount of damage. A certain amount of bargaining is normal, even at accidents involving two Chinese parties. If you feel physically threatened, call the police immediately, as well as the Embassy or nearest consulate. If a traffic police booth is nearby, you may wish to leave the vehicle and walk there to await the arrival of the police accident team. Alternatively, you may walk to a shop, restaurant, or other location nearby in the immediate vicinity and wait for police.
Your vehicle should not leave the scene of an accident. Your actions may serve to further incite the crowd if they perceive that you are fleeing to evade responsibility for your share of blame or payment of damages. The crowd may attempt to keep your vehicle at the accident scene by standing in the way or blocking the roadway with vehicles, bicycles and other objects.
Wednesday, July 22, 2009
I Forgot to Mention...
This May, my parents made their 2nd visit together to Shanghai. We traveled together with them to Xi'an and then to Yunnan Province. My father has pointed out that I forgot to blog about the trip. My excuse is that I wrote an article on the trip for publication in Shanghai Family Magazine - I will link to it when it is published, in October. However, in my article I focused on Lijiang and Tiger-Leaping-Gorge. My father focused on his time in Shanghai and the remainder of the trip in his Guest Blog. I only just received his text and photos, but have posted it on the date he should have sent it (in early June). Because its so full of good info and photos, I thought I'd repost it here so regular readers wouldn't miss it.
As a child, most of us carry the classic dreams of seeing the world, becoming rich and famous, and more. At least, I did. My dream of seeing the world arose from reading my grandfather's National Geographic magazines, staring at the photos of Africa and China. But there was always an element of realism in my dreaming, understanding how unlikely it was that a kid from a rural town in Nebraska (State motto: I don’t know; what do you want to do?) would really get there. Still, I made my lists of dreams and life moved on. Over the years I accomplished some of my dreams, eliminated some others (my eyesight wasn’t good enough to be a pilot) and set aside several more (I still hope to be rich and famous).
Which brings me to seeing the world. When Ann and I got married, neither of us had seen much of the world. I had made a college trip to Mexico and a fishing trip to Canada, and Ann had never left the country. In fact, neither of us had even met an African-American or Asian person until college in my case, and after college in Ann’s case. Over time, my various careers took me all over the United States for brief visits; but we had kids, a mortgage, and Ann's business, significant family travel just didn’t happen.
But the dream to see the places I had read about, particularly China, still smoldered.
So, I found our first trip to China (May 2008) overwhelming. The mere fact that we were really going was overwhelming enough; coupled with the nearly 24 hours of travel it takes to get there, the noise, the pollution, the crowds, the strange food, eating with chopsticks, our unfamiliarity with the language, and other difficulties would have kept us from going in the first place except that we had a place to stay, a guide and we really wanted to see our grandchildren.
That first trip lasted three weeks. We visited The Great Wall, Tiananmen Square, The Forbidden City and had a great three days in rural China. Lynne wrote blogs about that trip when we made it last year and Dave’s parents made the same trip a couple of months ago and you have read their blogs about that trip as well so, I will write nothing more about the first trip except to say that standing on the Great Wall of China had been of those dreams from age 10. Standing in Tiananmen Square had only been significant for the last 19 years (at that time). Both, however, were incredible experiences.
Ann then returned to China for two weeks in August to help Lynne move to their new digs, and we have just returned from a month long trip together. This time we were much more prepared for the long trip and we expected the noise, the pollution, the crowds, and the unfamiliarity with the language. And by the way, one of the real joys of China is the strange food.
So, this trip we spent the first few days just getting our body clocks adjusted and finding our way around. Since Ann had already been to their apartment, she knew her way around the neighborhood so we pretty well hit the ground running. Our second night there, we met a couple from our church who have become good friends of ours. They were with a tour group and happened to be in Shanghai at a hotel within walking distance of us. So, we got together for dinner and had a great time. It is a small world, after all.
After a few days, Lynne and Dave left for a trip to Singapore, and Borneo in Maylasia and left the girls in our care. What a joy that was. We went to the zoo, the botanical gardens, the Magic Forest, McDonald’s, several playgrounds, watched movies, read stories, visited L--’s school and had a marvelous time. In case you don’t know it, our grandkids are extraordinary in every way and we enjoy being with them.
The highlight of the trip was a week in Central and Western China with the whole family. I should talk a bit about flying with this family. Moving 6 people through Chinese airports is a pretty interesting experience. Lynne carries everyone’s passport so we all have to go through together. Ann and I have one bag between us and a couple of carry-on bags with camera, books, puzzles, and munchies. These guys have two ENORMOUS bags (each is larger than L), two back packs stuffed full, a camera bag and two child car seats. So baggage check is a real treat.
We first flew to Xi’an in Central China, (about a 2 ½ hour flight from Shanghai) primarily to see the Terracotta Warriors. However, I really enjoyed the city. Xi’an was the capital of China several times and has been on that site for 3,100 years. The old city is surrounded by a wall built in the 14th century. The wall (12 km around) is still intact. The best way to see it is to rent a bicycle and ride around the top. We, of course, did so. Ann and I rented a tandem bike and enjoyed the ride very much.
Our first night in Xi’an, we visited Defu Chang Restaurant and had a great meal of a dozen or so different kinds of fried and steamed dumplings. Excellent.
The next morning we headed out bright and early for the Terracotta Warriors. (I should also explain that when we arrived in each city, we were greeted by a guide and a driver who were responsible for getting us everywhere we wanted to go, answering our questions, making restaurant reservations, and solving any problems. Lynne set all this up and did a fine job.) After our visit to the Forbidden City and the Summer Palace in Beijing the year before, I had declared them to be the ultimate example of the arrogance of power and wealth. After visiting the Terracotta Warriors, I have changed my mind. This guy (Qin Shihuang) was emperor in 210 and decided that he was a God and would return to earth after he died. Therefore, he would need his army. So, he buried a reproduction of his army. Archaeologists are still uncovering more of this army but they believe there are more than 8,000 terracotta soldiers buried here along with chariots, horses, etc. Absolutely amazing. The other amazing thing is the excellent condition that many of these soldiers are in.That evening, we strolled the Muslim Quarter and ate street food.
The next morning it was off to Kunming in Yunnan Province (another 2 hour plane ride). Yunnan Province is in far southwest China and is bordered by Vietnam, Laos, Myanmar (Burma) and Tibet. The primary reason to go to Kunming is to catch a plane to go somewhere else; but since we were there, we visited Devil’s Gate. How can I describe Dragons Gate? We rode up the mountain in a cable car and we were at least 1,000 feet above both the city and the most polluted lake I have ever seen – Lake Dian. Our guide said that all lakes in China are ranked on a pollution index, with 1 the best and 5 the worst. Lake Dian is a 5. We walked back down the mountain, through tunnels and along ledges with great views of the city and the polluted lake. At nine points along the walk down, we would come upon a Buddhist temple which had been carved or built into the side of the mountain. The work involved in doing this and building the path down the mountain was pretty impressive and it was a nice walk down.
We then went to our resort for the evening. Nice place. It had a big pool for the girls to enjoy, and several hot springs. We played in the pool, soaked in the various hot springs, and generally relaxed. We decided, at some point in time, to have supper outside on the lanai but could find no one who spoke English to take our order. Dave and Lynne eventually found a menu and by pointing at various things got us a great poolside supper.
Off again. This time a one hour flight to Dali. The Dali airport is on a mesa above town and so the drive to town is at least half an hour, much of it skirting Lake Ertai which we were scheduled to ride on later in the trip. Dali is approx. 2300 meters and is beautiful. It is the center of the Bai culture and a very interesting place. We first went to Old Town where we had a great lunch. In fact, the lunch was so good that we went back to the same restaurant for supper. As was our custom, each of the four of us ordered something from the menu and then we all shared everything. After a pleasant lunch, we jumped back in the car and visited a few small villages in the area. The first village had native dancers performing their native dances and three servings of tea. In the second village we watched indigo dye being prepared for batik and purchased some finished products. We then returned to Dali and spent the rest of the day exploring Old Town.
The next morning, we took a nice ride on Lake Ertai. Rode out to an island which housed a fishing village and explored there for a while. Grabbed some snacks which served as our lunch and headed for the cable car. We were not returning to the same hotel that night, but we left all of our stuff there because we were going to stay at a mountaintop “resort” that night and could only take what we could carry.
We rode another cable car up high on the mountain and then disembarked for the walk to the resort. I had understood that the walk was an easy 8 kilometer walk, and while that is a pretty good distance, I was prepared to make it. However, the walk began by climbing vertical stairs for at least 500 feet carrying children, packs and ourselves. I was already tired when we got to the road to the resort. However, the road was level, very well maintained and not a difficult walk at all. Rita (our guide) informed us that it was a 12 kilometer walk and we started off. It was a beautiful walk – high on the side of the mountain with great views of the city below and we were able to move along at a fairly good pace. After several short breaks and a couple of long ones, we reached the cabin only to find that it was another 500 foot climb.
The camp was a typical hikers camp – cabins with a dining room, showers, and a great view. Another great supper and off to bed.The next morning we rode another cable car down to Dali. Picked up our bags and headed over the mountains to Lijiang by car (a 4 hour drive). This was an incredible drive. We began in high mountain valleys growing rice, tobacco, potatoes, and other crops we did not recognize. As we began to climb higher and higher, we still passed farm fields stuck to the side of a slope and some of the most intricate terraces I have ever seen. The views were amazing as we climbed to 10,000 feet or more. The traffic was pretty amazing as well. Heavy duty trucks carrying heavy loads slowed things down since there were few passing opportunities, but more than a few times we found ourselves behind a homemade truck which had been converted from a Cushman or some similar motorbike. These “trucks" would be hauling loads well beyond their capacity to haul, belching smoke and, in short, looking like they would not make it another mile.
We arrived in Lijiang in the rain and it rained off and on during most of our two nights there. It is a beautiful city at 3,100 meters (about 10,000 feet) altitude and would be even more so in the sunshine. The old city is built along a series of canals that come down from the mountains and was quite confusing for me to find my way around. No vehicles are allowed on the narrow streets and it was a wonderful place to walk around.
The next morning, back in the car to drive up the Yangtze River valley to Tiger-Leaping-Gorge. The floor of the gorge at its lowest point is 1800 meters and the mountains on either side reach 5500 meters, making it one of the deepest gorges in the world. The gorge at its narrowest point is 33 meters wide. We took an incredible walk alongside it for a mile or more. It made me want to take the whole two day hiking trip, but that will be another time.
We returned to Lijiang in the late afternoon. Arose early the next morning to visit Black Dragon Pool with Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in the background. It was rainy and we could not see the mountain but it was a beautiful walk in the mist anyway. That afternoon, a flight back to Shanghai.
At Least No One Went Blind
The thunder lessened through the evening, and by the time I awoke this morning the ground was dry. The sky held its regular Shanghai grey, but I was hopeful that the clouds could break into a lovely blue sky for the 9:00 hour. Quite the contrary, rain began falling as I left home for my Eclipse Viewing Brunch. It fell heavier as we neared our time of totality - 9:36. I entered the restaurant at 9:20 to find a very small crowd. With the grey skies and the falling rain, the eclipse did not bring out the gawkers that many had expected. My friend Anna and I moved outside, standing under a small roof to stare at the small sliver of sky our restaurant afforded us. No sprawling view of the river or bright view of the Pudong skyline. The hotel hosting our event offered such a view, but put us in the lobby restaurant facing the street. With a rainy sky and a street view, we all felt a bit silly as we stared at the grey sky.
And then it got dark. Really quickly. And then it stayed dark - as dark as midnight. And it stayed dark for 5 minutes and 39 seconds. And then it got light again, really quickly. The photos below were taken over a 2 minute span, at exactly the same settings:
We called the Eclipse Viewing Party a non-event, and moved inside to enjoy our free brunch. As I'm usually feeling like its morning when I eat breakfast, I tend to stay away from Chinese food. But this morning, as I'd experienced morning and nightime and then morning again, anything seemed possible. I dived into the Chinese breakfast spread, and loved everything. As it turns out, dim sum, fried rice and chicken congee make a really super breakfast!
And then it got dark. Really quickly. And then it stayed dark - as dark as midnight. And it stayed dark for 5 minutes and 39 seconds. And then it got light again, really quickly. The photos below were taken over a 2 minute span, at exactly the same settings:
We called the Eclipse Viewing Party a non-event, and moved inside to enjoy our free brunch. As I'm usually feeling like its morning when I eat breakfast, I tend to stay away from Chinese food. But this morning, as I'd experienced morning and nightime and then morning again, anything seemed possible. I dived into the Chinese breakfast spread, and loved everything. As it turns out, dim sum, fried rice and chicken congee make a really super breakfast!
Tuesday, July 21, 2009
And So It Begins
The storms which threaten to blot out one of the most impressive sites of nature have begun in earnest.
Shanghai expects a full solar eclipse tomorrow morning, to begin in totality at 9:36 and last until 9:41. A total solar eclipse is a rare site to begin with, but this one will have the sun fully blocked from the earth for 5 minutes making it the longest eclipse in the entire 21st century. Shanghai saw its last solar eclipse in 1575, so the city has been waiting a long time for this portent of change.
But the portent will probably be obscured by serious thunderstorms. The storms have already started, hollering thunder and flashing lightning through the sky. The wind is blowing my chairs across the balcony and waving my laundry line. The hour-to-hour forecast shows 100% chance of rain from 4:00am until 7:30am, with the odds only dropping to 90% from 8-11am, the full time of the eclipse.
I've got tickets (free, thank goodness) to a brunch at the Hyatt on the Bund. The windows from the hotel will provide an unobstructed view of the Pudong skyline with the sun rising over it. It'll be perfect conditions for watching the moon move in front of the morning sun. Or it'll be a great place to watch a storm. Will post pictures either way, so you can share whatever I see of this historic and beautiful phenomenon.
Shanghai expects a full solar eclipse tomorrow morning, to begin in totality at 9:36 and last until 9:41. A total solar eclipse is a rare site to begin with, but this one will have the sun fully blocked from the earth for 5 minutes making it the longest eclipse in the entire 21st century. Shanghai saw its last solar eclipse in 1575, so the city has been waiting a long time for this portent of change.
But the portent will probably be obscured by serious thunderstorms. The storms have already started, hollering thunder and flashing lightning through the sky. The wind is blowing my chairs across the balcony and waving my laundry line. The hour-to-hour forecast shows 100% chance of rain from 4:00am until 7:30am, with the odds only dropping to 90% from 8-11am, the full time of the eclipse.
I've got tickets (free, thank goodness) to a brunch at the Hyatt on the Bund. The windows from the hotel will provide an unobstructed view of the Pudong skyline with the sun rising over it. It'll be perfect conditions for watching the moon move in front of the morning sun. Or it'll be a great place to watch a storm. Will post pictures either way, so you can share whatever I see of this historic and beautiful phenomenon.
What We've Been Reading
Within the span of a few days, I began and finished The Last Chinese Chef by Nicole Mones. Although not a lasting piece of literature, I really enjoyed the book and would recommend it to anyone. The author easily pulls together a few strong themes - love, loss and being an outsider. But she keeps these potentially strong themes as simple subplots, allowing the tie between food and Chinese culture to carry the book.I know, that makes it sound like a kind of boring book. Far from it. This book was a quick read, with an easy story that has both believability and a level of suspense, without being too depressing or unrealistically perky. The story itself is good, and worth a read on its own.
For those interested in life in China, I strongly recommend this book. The author has clearly lived as an expatriate in Beijing, and easily describes life on the outside of Chinese culture - from the sleaze of too many expat men to the simple fact that a Westerner will never fully belong in China. Her insights into the food and its ties to culture are astounding, and many of them new to me. Her understanding of the local culture surpasses mine - and sensibly so, as she conducted business in China for nearly a decade.
For a good story and a good read, The Last Chinese Chef does not disappoint - no surprise, as the author also wrote bestseller Lost in Translation.
As an interesting primer of expat life in China, and on Chinese culture the book informs in an entertaining and accessible way.
Monday, July 20, 2009
Mommy and the Terrible, Horrible...
I woke up late and could hardly open my eyes because the air was so dry from the fan, and then S-- woke up grumpy and emptied her entire bladder all over the guest room floor, and L-- was crying because she couldn't color while she ate breakfast, and Skype wouldn't work while we tried to talk to Nana and Poppa. My waffles were soggy and my orange juice was warm and I could tell that it was going to be a terrible, horrible, no good, very bad day.
After breakfast, I looked outside and could practically see the heat rising off of the sidewalks. At Nana and Poppa's house in St. Louis, the high temperature was 77 degrees Fahrenheit. At Grammy and Grampa's house in Chicago, the high was only 75 degrees. At my house in China, the temperature has reached 102 degrees with a heat index of 113 degrees.
I wanna move to America.
At the beautiful outdoor swimming pool, they asked me why I didn't look like the picture in the computer when I told them my name, and I told them that I'd had a haircut and then tried to get away from the front desk as quickly as I could. But then L-- had to go pee and S-- fell down on the steps and I couldn't get out of the front office quickly enough, and they told me that my file said that I would be gone for all of the summer. And then I had to tell them that I had lied to them, but that it was just to make their job easier because my friend had told me that I could come on her account but that I didn't want to confuse them. They smiled at me really sweetly and said please don't come to their pool anymore.
I could tell it was going to be a terrible, horrible, no good, very bad day.
I could tell because I had wanted to meet my friends at the pool and I sent them an email and I thought they would be there, but then at the last minute neither of them could come. And they're not really my friends anyway, but only my summer friends waiting for our real friends to come back because all of our real friends have left China to go to Germany or Holland or Australia or America for the summer. And my really good friend who also stayed in Shanghai for the summer is moving next week to America FOREVER.
My spicy tofu was cold, and I hate cold leftovers.
We had to watch Dora on TV, and I hate Dora.
It has been a terrible, horrible, no good, very bad day.
My husband says some days are like that. Even in America.
Credit for all cleverness goes to Judith Viorst, author of "Alexander and the Terrible, Horrible, No Good, Very Bad Day;" one of our favorite books.
After breakfast, I looked outside and could practically see the heat rising off of the sidewalks. At Nana and Poppa's house in St. Louis, the high temperature was 77 degrees Fahrenheit. At Grammy and Grampa's house in Chicago, the high was only 75 degrees. At my house in China, the temperature has reached 102 degrees with a heat index of 113 degrees.
I wanna move to America.
At the beautiful outdoor swimming pool, they asked me why I didn't look like the picture in the computer when I told them my name, and I told them that I'd had a haircut and then tried to get away from the front desk as quickly as I could. But then L-- had to go pee and S-- fell down on the steps and I couldn't get out of the front office quickly enough, and they told me that my file said that I would be gone for all of the summer. And then I had to tell them that I had lied to them, but that it was just to make their job easier because my friend had told me that I could come on her account but that I didn't want to confuse them. They smiled at me really sweetly and said please don't come to their pool anymore.
I could tell it was going to be a terrible, horrible, no good, very bad day.
I could tell because I had wanted to meet my friends at the pool and I sent them an email and I thought they would be there, but then at the last minute neither of them could come. And they're not really my friends anyway, but only my summer friends waiting for our real friends to come back because all of our real friends have left China to go to Germany or Holland or Australia or America for the summer. And my really good friend who also stayed in Shanghai for the summer is moving next week to America FOREVER.
My spicy tofu was cold, and I hate cold leftovers.
We had to watch Dora on TV, and I hate Dora.
It has been a terrible, horrible, no good, very bad day.
My husband says some days are like that. Even in America.
Credit for all cleverness goes to Judith Viorst, author of "Alexander and the Terrible, Horrible, No Good, Very Bad Day;" one of our favorite books.
Lost Heaven
Our swimming privileges have been revoked.
Farewell to days and days spent in the cool water underneath the hot sun.
Hello to the hot, hot sun.
Farewell to days and days spent in the cool water underneath the hot sun.
Hello to the hot, hot sun.
Saturday, July 18, 2009
Heavenly
I admit it - Shanghai Summer had nearly gotten the best of me.
I felt lonely and isolated, with all of my friends gone.
The heat reached the upper nineties, and coupled with humidity we still carry heat indexes of nearly 110.
We had nowhere to go, no one to see, and nothing to do.
This had my girls entirely pleased, as they're both quite keen to spend their days inside, playing together with their toys. Good news, except that days inside lead to days without naps, and no one is happy when my children do not nap.
But then we were handed the holy grail.
A temporary membership to the Ambassy Club.
The Ambassy Club has typical health club facilities - tennis courts, fitness center, indoor pool, all the rest contained in the health club across the street from our home. But it also has something quite rare in this city. An outdoor swimming pool.
And this is no ordinary Chinese outdoor swimming pool. No, no, no. This swimming pool has lifeguards. At this swimming pool, the chlorine is at healthy levels and does not burn your eyes. This pool is in the sun all day, and still the water remains cool. This swimming pool is built with young children in mind, meaning that it is frequented primarily by families. Yet, this swimming pool is not crowded.
We spent all morning there, and everyone took good naps this afternoon.
We plan to spend all morning there tomorrow.
And the next day.
Ahh, summer.
I felt lonely and isolated, with all of my friends gone.
The heat reached the upper nineties, and coupled with humidity we still carry heat indexes of nearly 110.
We had nowhere to go, no one to see, and nothing to do.
This had my girls entirely pleased, as they're both quite keen to spend their days inside, playing together with their toys. Good news, except that days inside lead to days without naps, and no one is happy when my children do not nap.
But then we were handed the holy grail.
A temporary membership to the Ambassy Club.
The Ambassy Club has typical health club facilities - tennis courts, fitness center, indoor pool, all the rest contained in the health club across the street from our home. But it also has something quite rare in this city. An outdoor swimming pool.
And this is no ordinary Chinese outdoor swimming pool. No, no, no. This swimming pool has lifeguards. At this swimming pool, the chlorine is at healthy levels and does not burn your eyes. This pool is in the sun all day, and still the water remains cool. This swimming pool is built with young children in mind, meaning that it is frequented primarily by families. Yet, this swimming pool is not crowded.
We spent all morning there, and everyone took good naps this afternoon.
We plan to spend all morning there tomorrow.
And the next day.
Ahh, summer.
On His Way
Everyone remembers our friend Doug, right?
Doug has been trying to enter the U.S. Foreign Service for quite some time now.
He first submitted his application in about December.
With an accepted application, he stood for his Written Examination in February.
He passed the test.
He submitted essays and various paperwork over the next few months.
He stands for his Oral Examination on Wednesday - this Wednesday.
He is stepping onto a plane in a few minutes, having already left home.
Although he is loath to admit it, he is nervous. He has invested a lot of himself into this process, and has placed his hopes and expectations into getting accepted.
He will find out at the end of his interview on Wednesday.
We will keep you posted.
Doug has been trying to enter the U.S. Foreign Service for quite some time now.
He first submitted his application in about December.
With an accepted application, he stood for his Written Examination in February.
He passed the test.
He submitted essays and various paperwork over the next few months.
He stands for his Oral Examination on Wednesday - this Wednesday.
He is stepping onto a plane in a few minutes, having already left home.
Although he is loath to admit it, he is nervous. He has invested a lot of himself into this process, and has placed his hopes and expectations into getting accepted.
He will find out at the end of his interview on Wednesday.
We will keep you posted.
Thursday, July 16, 2009
Leaving a Mess
When Wendy cooks:
Wendy is our Chinese housekeeper, and also a fabulous cook. I've referred to her here before. And if you've eaten at our house over the last 9 months, I hope you have been so lucky as to taste some of her food. She cooks Chinese food exclusively - well, that and flour tortillas. This particular evening, she prepared a veritable feast for us. Six people ate 8 different dishes, and stuffed ourselves silly. When she left, as we sat down to eat she said, Do you mind if I clean up tomorrow? I've just left my prep dishes in the sink. No problem, we replied. Of course - go home! The photo above was the entire contents of the sink after she prepared her feast.
I made dinner tonight. Here's the sink afterward:
With more still sitting on the stove:
I find the differences between China and America endlessly fascinating, and one of them is the culture around food. One small aspect is the prep going into such interesting and varied dishes. Wendy generally only uses one of my knives - my largest. She generally uses one of two utensils - a spatula or chopsticks. And she only uses one pot - the wok. She steams in the wok, boils in the wok, fries in the wok. She cooks rice in the rice cooker, and she does boil noodles and make some meat dishes in a small saucepan. But that's it.
I made two dishes for our meal this evening, and don't really feel like I used an unnecessary dish in the process. Handy that I'm the one with the housekeeper!
Wendy is our Chinese housekeeper, and also a fabulous cook. I've referred to her here before. And if you've eaten at our house over the last 9 months, I hope you have been so lucky as to taste some of her food. She cooks Chinese food exclusively - well, that and flour tortillas. This particular evening, she prepared a veritable feast for us. Six people ate 8 different dishes, and stuffed ourselves silly. When she left, as we sat down to eat she said, Do you mind if I clean up tomorrow? I've just left my prep dishes in the sink. No problem, we replied. Of course - go home! The photo above was the entire contents of the sink after she prepared her feast.I made dinner tonight. Here's the sink afterward:
With more still sitting on the stove:
I find the differences between China and America endlessly fascinating, and one of them is the culture around food. One small aspect is the prep going into such interesting and varied dishes. Wendy generally only uses one of my knives - my largest. She generally uses one of two utensils - a spatula or chopsticks. And she only uses one pot - the wok. She steams in the wok, boils in the wok, fries in the wok. She cooks rice in the rice cooker, and she does boil noodles and make some meat dishes in a small saucepan. But that's it.
I made two dishes for our meal this evening, and don't really feel like I used an unnecessary dish in the process. Handy that I'm the one with the housekeeper!
Beating the Lonelies
Expats go home for the summer.
This is a pretty broad statement. But generally speaking, once a family has children in school, they travel to their home country over the summer break. As we were reaching the end of the school year, we'd all compare our travel stories for the summer. I'd mention the trips we had planned, but that we planned to stay in our home for most of the summer. Friends would pat me on the back with compassion, saying I've got to get out of here for the summer.
Shanghai is very different from many other places. Its a huge city, for one. And with all of the problems any huge city carries. Its overcrowded, its dirty, it lacks green space, its noisy, people are rude. Plus, its China and inherently different from anywhere else in the world. This ancient and historically closed culture has so many unexpected differences, that few people can expect to feel completely at home in China if they were not raised here.
Its good to escape, but we've chosen to make our escape in the winter. We hail from the Midwest in America, where the summers are at least as ugly as in Shanghai. Temps can sit in the 90s for a week at a time, with humidity near 100%. We figured that if we can handle a St. Louis summer, we can handle it in Shanghai. But the winters here are ugly - dampness fills the air and blocks the sun, leaving the city dark and dingy for months. The damp air makes the cold seep into everything, and the inefficient heaters don't chase it away. I prefer to escape in the winter.
Trouble is, that all friends within a 30 minute drive of our home have departed for the summer. And have now been departed for a good few weeks. Of course, there are new friends. Summer friends, who also chose to deal with the smelly heat. But what time with these new friends has made me realize is lovely - that I have some very good friends who support me through the year. I miss my good friends. Finding time to meet new people is quite enjoyable, but not having someone I know well to touch base with is beginning to feel isolating, and I find myself on Facebook more frequently. Refreshing my email inbox freakishly often.
The expat portions of the city have emptied out as well. I never stand in line at the import grocery store anymore. Playgrounds and swimming pools in expat compounds are quiet, which is how my girls like it. And we do have two ice-cream stores within walking distance, making an evening walk in the heat still entirely bearable.
In an effort to put a positive spin on things, I've made a list of big projects to try to finish this summer. Its an impressive list, and I've made more effort to read books and sleep well than to get anything accomplished. But it makes me feel good about my days.
But facing next summer, we may well jet out of town like the rest of the community.
This is a pretty broad statement. But generally speaking, once a family has children in school, they travel to their home country over the summer break. As we were reaching the end of the school year, we'd all compare our travel stories for the summer. I'd mention the trips we had planned, but that we planned to stay in our home for most of the summer. Friends would pat me on the back with compassion, saying I've got to get out of here for the summer.
Shanghai is very different from many other places. Its a huge city, for one. And with all of the problems any huge city carries. Its overcrowded, its dirty, it lacks green space, its noisy, people are rude. Plus, its China and inherently different from anywhere else in the world. This ancient and historically closed culture has so many unexpected differences, that few people can expect to feel completely at home in China if they were not raised here.
Its good to escape, but we've chosen to make our escape in the winter. We hail from the Midwest in America, where the summers are at least as ugly as in Shanghai. Temps can sit in the 90s for a week at a time, with humidity near 100%. We figured that if we can handle a St. Louis summer, we can handle it in Shanghai. But the winters here are ugly - dampness fills the air and blocks the sun, leaving the city dark and dingy for months. The damp air makes the cold seep into everything, and the inefficient heaters don't chase it away. I prefer to escape in the winter.
Trouble is, that all friends within a 30 minute drive of our home have departed for the summer. And have now been departed for a good few weeks. Of course, there are new friends. Summer friends, who also chose to deal with the smelly heat. But what time with these new friends has made me realize is lovely - that I have some very good friends who support me through the year. I miss my good friends. Finding time to meet new people is quite enjoyable, but not having someone I know well to touch base with is beginning to feel isolating, and I find myself on Facebook more frequently. Refreshing my email inbox freakishly often.
The expat portions of the city have emptied out as well. I never stand in line at the import grocery store anymore. Playgrounds and swimming pools in expat compounds are quiet, which is how my girls like it. And we do have two ice-cream stores within walking distance, making an evening walk in the heat still entirely bearable.
In an effort to put a positive spin on things, I've made a list of big projects to try to finish this summer. Its an impressive list, and I've made more effort to read books and sleep well than to get anything accomplished. But it makes me feel good about my days.
But facing next summer, we may well jet out of town like the rest of the community.
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
I'm Lovin' It!
I've gone book shopping twice in the last month. With a child like L--, a library or a bookstore is a fixture in life. She had a library while she was in school, where she chose a new book every day. This is her picture of heaven. Now that school has stopped, she spends time staring at the book shelves, trying to find one she hasn't read yet.
So, at the beginning of July I took her to a bookstore. This is not just the bookstore on the corner, of course. This is a bookstore which sells English language books. This means imports, and they sell at a premium. We bought 5 paperback children's books - and paid 341 RMB. That's about $11 per book.
Then last week I heard about a little shop run out of someone's apartment. Places like this are what shopping in China is all about. It seems like to us that the owner of the apartment is somehow connected to a children's publisher. Because this is no bookstore. This is piles of books, and boxes of books, where each book costs 15 RMB. That's about $2.50 per book. I spent 428 RMB and came out with a stack of books so high I could barely walk.
And my little girl is back in heaven again.
So, at the beginning of July I took her to a bookstore. This is not just the bookstore on the corner, of course. This is a bookstore which sells English language books. This means imports, and they sell at a premium. We bought 5 paperback children's books - and paid 341 RMB. That's about $11 per book.
Then last week I heard about a little shop run out of someone's apartment. Places like this are what shopping in China is all about. It seems like to us that the owner of the apartment is somehow connected to a children's publisher. Because this is no bookstore. This is piles of books, and boxes of books, where each book costs 15 RMB. That's about $2.50 per book. I spent 428 RMB and came out with a stack of books so high I could barely walk.
And my little girl is back in heaven again.
Monday, July 13, 2009
Phew!
Shanghai has been cleaning up its act this year. We're receiving new sidewalks on every street, reorganizing power lines, and smoothing out major streets. We're planting trees and sprucing up green spaces. And we're building like mad people.
Building like mad people isn't unusual for Shanghai - but the scope of building within the Shanghai Expo site is really quite spectacular. The site covers 5.28 square kilometers and crosses the Huangpu River. You can watch construction progress on the Expo's website, but the small camera dwarves the impressive growth we see everytime we pass through the site.
Much like the Olympics in Beijing last year, China has invested much money and emotional energy into this Expo - the modern version of the world's fair. As the Olympics were Beijing's coming out party to the world, Shanghai will dance in the world spotlight with the Expo in less than one year. They expect 70 million visitors to enter the grounds, with participation by 200 countries and international institutions (those international organizations are important, since there are only 195 nations in the world).
Only recently added to that list 200-strong?
The United States of America.
A World's Fair without America's participation would have embarrassed China as well as America, if not more. Shamefully, America could not find someone organized and influential enough to make this Expo happen. First, it seemed unclear whether or not the U.S. desired involvement. When a ragtag team of fundraisers and organizers called Shanghai Expo, Inc. were finally authorized to organize American participation, they were unable to raise the appropriate amount of funds or to garner enough corporate interest. The U.S. government is legally prohibited from providing funds for a national pavilion, and so the state department sad rather idly by, waiting for these yo-yo's to put together something funding for a pavilion that would save face for everyone.
Dangerously close to the deadline - the Expo will begin in 292 days - U.S. Secretary of State Hillary Clinton grasped the reins and handed them over to Jose H. Villarreal, appointed U.S. Commissioner General to the 2010 World Exposition on July 1. Since that day, he jumped on a plane to Shanghai and organized an official announcement of US participation.
Americans in China (Jim Fallows and Adam Minter are two interesting ones, but my friends and I are included) were becoming increasingly nervous about the impact a lack of participation could have on U.S.-China relations, and the Expo as a whole. With this announcement, many Americans familiar with China breathed a collective sigh of relief.
Building like mad people isn't unusual for Shanghai - but the scope of building within the Shanghai Expo site is really quite spectacular. The site covers 5.28 square kilometers and crosses the Huangpu River. You can watch construction progress on the Expo's website, but the small camera dwarves the impressive growth we see everytime we pass through the site.
Much like the Olympics in Beijing last year, China has invested much money and emotional energy into this Expo - the modern version of the world's fair. As the Olympics were Beijing's coming out party to the world, Shanghai will dance in the world spotlight with the Expo in less than one year. They expect 70 million visitors to enter the grounds, with participation by 200 countries and international institutions (those international organizations are important, since there are only 195 nations in the world).
Only recently added to that list 200-strong?
The United States of America.
A World's Fair without America's participation would have embarrassed China as well as America, if not more. Shamefully, America could not find someone organized and influential enough to make this Expo happen. First, it seemed unclear whether or not the U.S. desired involvement. When a ragtag team of fundraisers and organizers called Shanghai Expo, Inc. were finally authorized to organize American participation, they were unable to raise the appropriate amount of funds or to garner enough corporate interest. The U.S. government is legally prohibited from providing funds for a national pavilion, and so the state department sad rather idly by, waiting for these yo-yo's to put together something funding for a pavilion that would save face for everyone.
Dangerously close to the deadline - the Expo will begin in 292 days - U.S. Secretary of State Hillary Clinton grasped the reins and handed them over to Jose H. Villarreal, appointed U.S. Commissioner General to the 2010 World Exposition on July 1. Since that day, he jumped on a plane to Shanghai and organized an official announcement of US participation.
Americans in China (Jim Fallows and Adam Minter are two interesting ones, but my friends and I are included) were becoming increasingly nervous about the impact a lack of participation could have on U.S.-China relations, and the Expo as a whole. With this announcement, many Americans familiar with China breathed a collective sigh of relief.
Sunday, July 12, 2009
The Chinese Lunar Calendar
I know very little about the Chinese Lunar Calendar - and will claim absolutely no expertise in this forum. Suffice it to say that I knew it described holidays and had something to do with the phases of the moon.
Last year, June brought in a crashing wave of rain. I believe it rained from one of the first days of the month until one of the last days of the month, nearly every day. It would rain at least once a day, and it may well rain all day. Then July came, blowing the rain clouds away and bringing on heavy heat and high humidity through to mid-September.
I prepared myself for this onslaught of weather as I faced the summer in Shanghai. Many expats leave for the summer, especially those whose children are in school. Most of L--'s classmates... I'm sorry, ALL of L--'s classmates left Shanghai within 2 weeks of the end of school. They will return within 2 weeks of the beginning of school. We faced a yawning chasm of summertime with no friends, and the impending torrential fall of rain.
We waited for the rain with fear. Would we be sitting indoors for a month, scratching each other's eyes out with loneliness and boredom?
June rarely saw a drop of rain, and the temperature did not climb too high. It was pleasant to be outdoors, and we saw off our old friends while finding time to make new ones at the playground.
As July began, the temperature began to rise... and the rains set in. Not as bad as last year - thank goodness! Still, the season of pervading damp had clearly set upon us.
Apparently - and I can not find documentation to support or negate this on the web, but I believe my source - the Chinese lunar calendar has two Mays this year.
So our lovely June came after a lovely May - this fits entirely.
And our wet and steamy July was essentially a wet and steamy June, come 1 month late.
The question this raises is whether the heat will last until mid-October!
Last year, June brought in a crashing wave of rain. I believe it rained from one of the first days of the month until one of the last days of the month, nearly every day. It would rain at least once a day, and it may well rain all day. Then July came, blowing the rain clouds away and bringing on heavy heat and high humidity through to mid-September.
I prepared myself for this onslaught of weather as I faced the summer in Shanghai. Many expats leave for the summer, especially those whose children are in school. Most of L--'s classmates... I'm sorry, ALL of L--'s classmates left Shanghai within 2 weeks of the end of school. They will return within 2 weeks of the beginning of school. We faced a yawning chasm of summertime with no friends, and the impending torrential fall of rain.
We waited for the rain with fear. Would we be sitting indoors for a month, scratching each other's eyes out with loneliness and boredom?
June rarely saw a drop of rain, and the temperature did not climb too high. It was pleasant to be outdoors, and we saw off our old friends while finding time to make new ones at the playground.
As July began, the temperature began to rise... and the rains set in. Not as bad as last year - thank goodness! Still, the season of pervading damp had clearly set upon us.
Apparently - and I can not find documentation to support or negate this on the web, but I believe my source - the Chinese lunar calendar has two Mays this year.
So our lovely June came after a lovely May - this fits entirely.
And our wet and steamy July was essentially a wet and steamy June, come 1 month late.
The question this raises is whether the heat will last until mid-October!
Friday, July 10, 2009
Never a Dull Moment
Even though my day to day life in Shangai may have grown rather dull during the summer, the China-related news has certainly not disappointed.
First, we've got the Uighur conflict. I can't claim much expertise on this issue, because although I've read a bit about it, I'm so skeptical of all news coming out of China that I feel confident only in the fact that I am not getting the full story.
Second, the ongoing H1N1 virus quarantine. We received this communication from the U.S. Embassy today:
First, we've got the Uighur conflict. I can't claim much expertise on this issue, because although I've read a bit about it, I'm so skeptical of all news coming out of China that I feel confident only in the fact that I am not getting the full story.
Second, the ongoing H1N1 virus quarantine. We received this communication from the U.S. Embassy today:
The Department of State alerts U.S. citizens to the quarantine measures imposed by the Government of China in response to the 2009-H1N1 pandemic...
In May 2009, China implemented a policy that allows it to quarantine arriving passengers who exhibit fever or flu-like symptoms if they are arriving from a country which has cases of 2009-H1N1, including the U.S. Although the overall percentage of Americans being quarantined remains low, the seemingly random nature of the selection process makes it almost impossible to predict when a traveler may be placed into quarantine. Travelers with even a slightly elevated body temperature risk being placed into hospital quarantine, while passengers sitting in close proximity to another traveler with fever or flu-like symptoms may be taken to a specially-designated hotel for a quarantine of approximately seven days, even if they show no symptoms themselves.
The Department of State has received reports of minors traveling without a parent or adult guardian being taken into quarantine upon arrival. Some of the children were under 10 years of age. Parents considering sending their children unaccompanied to China are urged to consider postponing their travel until the quarantine policy ends or until 2009-H1N1 Influenza subsides. In addition, there have been some instances where children have been separated from their parents during quarantine because only the parent or the child tested positive for 2009-H1N1 or exhibited symptoms. Travelers are advised that Chinese health authorities have not issued a country-wide policy on keeping family members together in quarantine, and the practice of keeping young children with their parents or guardians varies by quarantine facility. In some hospitals, parents have been denied access to their children who were in isolated quarantine. In these situations, there exists the possibility of Chinese medical personnel administering medications to minors without parental permission.
The Department of State continues to receive reports about poor quarantine conditions, including the unavailability of suitable drinking water and food, unsanitary conditions, the lack of telephone access, the absence of English-speaking staff, and limited availability of English-language interpreters.
Travelers to China are reminded that all foreign travelers, including U.S. citizens, are obliged to follow local procedures regarding quarantines and any other public health-related measures. The U.S. Embassy is unable to influence the duration of stay in quarantine for affected travelers. The Chinese government will not compensate people for lost travel expenses. Travelers to China are urged to consider purchasing travel insurance to protect against losses in the event they are quarantined.
It seems that most residents are able to face quarantine inside their own homes, but we have many friends who have been effected by this in some fashion - including deciding to remain in the U.S. rather than fly back to China because a member of the family felt sick. Probably a good decision for all involved, regardless of the quarantine risk.Wednesday, July 08, 2009
Emotionally Invested
Dave tells me I become too emotionally invested in things - so invested that I get too upset when they don't come through.
We had decided to move when our lease expires, on August 31. We want to be within walking distance of L--'s new school, snuggled right in the heart of the French Concession. We want to live in a lane house, a renovated old home located on a lane off of the main street. We spoke with two agents, who showed us a number of homes. We like a number of homes. We told a number of landlords that we like their homes. We heard back from every single one that they were unwilling to hold their apartments until Sep. 1. Two of these went as far as writing a contract, and having Uncle H-- sign off on the paperwork. All negotiations were complete when the landlord informed us that they had rented to someone else - someone able to move in before Sep. 1.
So we will wait a few weeks, and we will look again. Presumably, many of those apartments we liked will still be on the market. Presumably, others that we will like just as well will newly be on the market.
And this is where I am too emotionally invested. Although I recognize that this is not the end of the world, I still feel the weight of depression this evening - after learning that the second home we had negotiated a lease on was given away. This home met each of our criteria beautifully - location, size, layout and access to green space. It may not have been the perfect home, but it was perfectly suitable and I had begun to move us in within my mind. Now I feel as if the rug has been pulled out from under me, and I know that I will have to arrange our move at the last minute.
This weight of depression was lifted at the playground this afternoon, as the girls and I made a new friend. Most of our friends have left for the summer, and we are enjoying meeting new children and moms who are around for the heat and humidity of July. We spent an hour or so with an Indian girl and her mother from Dehli, learned that they live right downstairs from us, and enjoyed watching the girls interact so naturally together.
The balance of this overabundance of emotional investment is that moments of joy come in wonderfully unexpected places and overwhelming ways.
We had decided to move when our lease expires, on August 31. We want to be within walking distance of L--'s new school, snuggled right in the heart of the French Concession. We want to live in a lane house, a renovated old home located on a lane off of the main street. We spoke with two agents, who showed us a number of homes. We like a number of homes. We told a number of landlords that we like their homes. We heard back from every single one that they were unwilling to hold their apartments until Sep. 1. Two of these went as far as writing a contract, and having Uncle H-- sign off on the paperwork. All negotiations were complete when the landlord informed us that they had rented to someone else - someone able to move in before Sep. 1.
So we will wait a few weeks, and we will look again. Presumably, many of those apartments we liked will still be on the market. Presumably, others that we will like just as well will newly be on the market.
And this is where I am too emotionally invested. Although I recognize that this is not the end of the world, I still feel the weight of depression this evening - after learning that the second home we had negotiated a lease on was given away. This home met each of our criteria beautifully - location, size, layout and access to green space. It may not have been the perfect home, but it was perfectly suitable and I had begun to move us in within my mind. Now I feel as if the rug has been pulled out from under me, and I know that I will have to arrange our move at the last minute.
This weight of depression was lifted at the playground this afternoon, as the girls and I made a new friend. Most of our friends have left for the summer, and we are enjoying meeting new children and moms who are around for the heat and humidity of July. We spent an hour or so with an Indian girl and her mother from Dehli, learned that they live right downstairs from us, and enjoyed watching the girls interact so naturally together.
The balance of this overabundance of emotional investment is that moments of joy come in wonderfully unexpected places and overwhelming ways.
Tuesday, July 07, 2009
Chinese Babies Sold Into Adoption
Every time I think about this article, I get charged up. In fact, I've been sitting on the article for a few days, waiting to write until I could be less emotionally involved. But I simply can not distance my emotions from this scenario.
The article is linked above and copied in full below, but allow me to shorten the story with key lines:
However, I feel disgust at the Chinese press for reporting this as if it is news, or should come as a surprise. The Chinese government keeps and strictly enforces a One Child Policy. Under this policy, a women who delivers a second child must pay a fine. Children are not given up for adoption as they are in the U.S. - they are abandoned, in the hopes that they will soon be found. Infanticide is rampant. Abortion is frequently forced on a mother by her government in late stages of pregnancy. All of these horrible practices occur as a direct consequence of the One Child Policy. It comes as absolutely no surprise to me that children would also be removed from their homes after birth, if the family could not pay the fine. Why would families not choose to have second children, if they could so easily get away with breaking this law?
I have a problem with the policy. I think it degrades basic human freedoms and forces good people to do horrible things to their own children. I have a problem with every negative consequence that comes as a result of this law - infanticide, abortion, abandonment, institutionalization. But I fail to see how this article states anything worth becoming stirred up about, when it refuses to criticize the policy itself.
As an additional point, the article states that each child was sold into adoption at a fee of $3,000. This fee is a required part of the adoption process for every international family, and although I first saw it as extortion, it has been explained to me many times as a simple payment for the care of the child - and to continue the care of children after my child leaves. If this sum is payment rather than a cost of service, than the magazine missed a much bigger story - as all international families paying for children is against international law, and contrary to all publications and communications by the Chinese government.
The article is linked above and copied in full below, but allow me to shorten the story with key lines:
"About 80 newborn baby girls from a county of Guizhou Province in southwest China have been removed from their families by local officials since 2001, and most have been handed over to foreign adoptive parents as orphans at a price of $3,000 each....Now, allow me to be clear. As a potential adoptive parent, I by no means advocate the stealing and selling of children. This is an abhorrent practice - clear and simple.
One family's "fifth daughter was removed by local family planning officials when they didn't pay the appropriate fine..."'This is the policy', Shi said. "You pay, or you let the government take care of the baby," he was quoted by the newspaper on Wednesday.
"But instead of being raised as promised, the girl was taken to the Zhenyuan orphanage and later adopted out to a foreign family, at a reported price of $3,000...
"It's believed authorities forged documents stating the babies were orphans and adoption fees were split between the orphanage and officials.
One law expert explained that "local family planning officials and the orphanage had committed a crime because nobody had the right to exploit a parent's right of guardianship over their children. The fact that babies had been removed to make a profit meant it was also abduction"
However, I feel disgust at the Chinese press for reporting this as if it is news, or should come as a surprise. The Chinese government keeps and strictly enforces a One Child Policy. Under this policy, a women who delivers a second child must pay a fine. Children are not given up for adoption as they are in the U.S. - they are abandoned, in the hopes that they will soon be found. Infanticide is rampant. Abortion is frequently forced on a mother by her government in late stages of pregnancy. All of these horrible practices occur as a direct consequence of the One Child Policy. It comes as absolutely no surprise to me that children would also be removed from their homes after birth, if the family could not pay the fine. Why would families not choose to have second children, if they could so easily get away with breaking this law?
I have a problem with the policy. I think it degrades basic human freedoms and forces good people to do horrible things to their own children. I have a problem with every negative consequence that comes as a result of this law - infanticide, abortion, abandonment, institutionalization. But I fail to see how this article states anything worth becoming stirred up about, when it refuses to criticize the policy itself.
As an additional point, the article states that each child was sold into adoption at a fee of $3,000. This fee is a required part of the adoption process for every international family, and although I first saw it as extortion, it has been explained to me many times as a simple payment for the care of the child - and to continue the care of children after my child leaves. If this sum is payment rather than a cost of service, than the magazine missed a much bigger story - as all international families paying for children is against international law, and contrary to all publications and communications by the Chinese government.
SW China: Baby girls taken and sold for adoption
By Wang Jingqiong (China Daily)
Updated: 2009-07-03 08:06
About 80 newborn baby girls from a county of Guizhou Province in southwest China have been removed from their families by local officials since 2001, and most have been handed over to foreign adoptive parents as orphans at a price of $3,000 each, the Southern Metropolis News reported on Wednesday.
Among the 80 families are Lu Xiande and Yang Shuiying, a poor farming couple whose fifth daughter was removed by local family planning officials when they didn't pay the appropriate fine, it reported.
Like every other father in Zhenyuan, Lu wanted a boy, who finally arrived after three daughters. His wife then gave birth to another girl, and the couple had to support five children with a yearly income of about 5,000 yuan ($732).
Shi Guangying, a local family planning official, gave them an ultimatum: Give away their little daughter or pay fines of about 20,000 yuan ($2,928).
"This is the policy", Shi said. "You pay, or you let the government take care of the baby," he was quoted by the newspaper on Wednesday.
But instead of being raised as promised, the girl was taken to the Zhenyuan orphanage and later adopted out to a foreign family, at a reported price of $3,000.
At least 78 girls have been handed over to foreign families in the past eight years. Two children with disabilities remain at the orphanage.
It's believed authorities forged documents stating the babies were orphans and adoption fees were split between the orphanage and officials.
The practice of making farmers who break the two-child policy and then fail to pay fines hand over their baby girls is now under investigation by the local public security bureau in Zhenyuan county.
Zhou Ze, a lawyer and professor with China Youth College for Political Sciences, said local family planning officials and the orphanage had committed a crime because nobody had the right to exploit a parent's right of guardianship over their children.
The fact that babies had been removed to make a profit meant it was also abduction, Zhou said.
"It is legal that they can charge fines, as the parents did violate the law by giving birth to more than one child. But that doesn't mean they can take away the child. The fines can be paid later or reduced", he said.
Tang Jian, an official of the Zhenyuan family planning bureau, said: "According to our investigation, it is true that babies who have parents were forced into the orphanage and then abroad".
Under Chinese adoption law, abandoned babies whose parents cannot be found can be registered for adoption.
"The most important thing is that we need so many other government departments, so many, to help us in the investigation," Liang Honghao, director of the Zhenyuan police bureau, was quoted by the Guangdong-based Time Weekly yesterday.
Sunday, July 05, 2009
Not for Public Consideration
One does not rent movies in Shanghai.
The option simply does not exist. If one wishes to watch a movie, three options exist.
1: Buy a ticket, and watch in the theatres
2: Buy an authentic DVD from a reputable distributor, such as Best Buy. This, of course, at full price plus an import premium.
3: Buy a pirated DVD from the little shop on the corner, or the man selling them out of a suitcase in front of your building.
Pirated DVDs cost between 5 and 12 RMB, depending on where you purchase and how well you negotiate. At most, the movie costs less than $2.
I must assume that sales of movies at legitimate distributors are low.
Pirating movies is big business in China, employing loads of people in factories and distribution centers. This is a well organized machine, making plenty of people loads of illegal money. And although China voices a firm stand against piracy, they take little action against it. I believe that the official stance is that the problem is too large and underground for the government to efficiently root out. Of course, that has not stopped them from rooting out dissent of any form against the government or the prominent way of life.
Either way, pirated DVDs are everywhere - and often make their way into our DVD player. Generally the piracy is obvious. Words play a few beats after the lips move. The picture is just slightly fuzzy - or, in fact, extremely fuzzy. You can see the heads of those sitting in front of the camcorder within the movie theatre, watch them stand as the credits roll.
But here was the best. Tonight we watched MILK, and did notice what a good copy we had acquired. And then the little white letters scrolled along the bottom of the page:
THIS VIEWING COPY IS PROVIDED FOR AWARDS CONSIDERATION ONLY AND IS NOT FOR SALE OR PUBLIC CONSIDERATION.
I love contemplating the trail this followed, out of a member of the academy's DVD player and into mine.
The option simply does not exist. If one wishes to watch a movie, three options exist.
1: Buy a ticket, and watch in the theatres
2: Buy an authentic DVD from a reputable distributor, such as Best Buy. This, of course, at full price plus an import premium.
3: Buy a pirated DVD from the little shop on the corner, or the man selling them out of a suitcase in front of your building.
Pirated DVDs cost between 5 and 12 RMB, depending on where you purchase and how well you negotiate. At most, the movie costs less than $2.
I must assume that sales of movies at legitimate distributors are low.
Pirating movies is big business in China, employing loads of people in factories and distribution centers. This is a well organized machine, making plenty of people loads of illegal money. And although China voices a firm stand against piracy, they take little action against it. I believe that the official stance is that the problem is too large and underground for the government to efficiently root out. Of course, that has not stopped them from rooting out dissent of any form against the government or the prominent way of life.
Either way, pirated DVDs are everywhere - and often make their way into our DVD player. Generally the piracy is obvious. Words play a few beats after the lips move. The picture is just slightly fuzzy - or, in fact, extremely fuzzy. You can see the heads of those sitting in front of the camcorder within the movie theatre, watch them stand as the credits roll.
But here was the best. Tonight we watched MILK, and did notice what a good copy we had acquired. And then the little white letters scrolled along the bottom of the page:
THIS VIEWING COPY IS PROVIDED FOR AWARDS CONSIDERATION ONLY AND IS NOT FOR SALE OR PUBLIC CONSIDERATION.
I love contemplating the trail this followed, out of a member of the academy's DVD player and into mine.
Saturday, July 04, 2009
4th of July in China
A Photographic Journey Through our Independence Day
We spent the morning in old town, shopping for fireworks. Easily had in China.
And the next shop over - rather unexpectedly - I was able to buy 8 American flags. No surprise on the fireworks, but who'da thought on the flags?
We awarded the girls with ice-cream, and apparently awarded a tremendous number of Chinese people with the chance to watch some little white girls.
Seriously, our kids are THE attraction here.
The Chinese do love to gather in a crowd. The next crowd gathered around these two men, fighting in the street. We thought for sure it would go to blows and bloody noses at this point, but this was the climax. Just a simple way to settle a dispute in China.
Home to decorate with our red, white and blue decorations. And then a classic American BBQ in the evening.
Topped it all of with sparklers - a first for each of the girls, and they all loved it.
Happy 4th of July!
We spent the morning in old town, shopping for fireworks. Easily had in China.
And the next shop over - rather unexpectedly - I was able to buy 8 American flags. No surprise on the fireworks, but who'da thought on the flags?
We awarded the girls with ice-cream, and apparently awarded a tremendous number of Chinese people with the chance to watch some little white girls.
Seriously, our kids are THE attraction here.
The Chinese do love to gather in a crowd. The next crowd gathered around these two men, fighting in the street. We thought for sure it would go to blows and bloody noses at this point, but this was the climax. Just a simple way to settle a dispute in China.
Home to decorate with our red, white and blue decorations. And then a classic American BBQ in the evening.
Topped it all of with sparklers - a first for each of the girls, and they all loved it.
Happy 4th of July!
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