Moving a lot can be really crummy, because it means that through our lives we will certainly leave behind many very good friends.
It also means that we will meet many, many incredible people.
I am proud to have been close friends with the man described here.
I am only sad that I am not hearing his good news from his own mouth, but from another friend's website, along with the news of his second child. Such is life.
But at least if we're gonna change friends every few years, we've got the advantage of being able to track many of them online.
Congratulations, Eric!
Thursday, October 29, 2009
Another Writer in the Family
Lilly wrote a story this evening. I mean, she conceived of the story, she decided upon the letters, and she wrote it herself.
If we had a scanner, I would show it to you.
Here is what she wrote:
LILLYWORNECLSTOSHONTLPAWFHRSOCMO.
Allow me to add some vowels and spaces:
LILLY WORe a NECklaSe TO SHOw aNd TelL and PlAyed WiF HeR SOCk MOnkey.
We had brunch with her teacher from last year, the amazing woman behind The Woman Center. She encouraged Lilly to be a brave writer, coming up with her words and letters all by herself to tell a story. Lilly took those instructions fully to heart, and wrote a story. I am a proud Mama tonight.
If we had a scanner, I would show it to you.
Here is what she wrote:
LILLYWORNECLSTOSHONTLPAWFHRSOCMO.
Allow me to add some vowels and spaces:
LILLY WORe a NECklaSe TO SHOw aNd TelL and PlAyed WiF HeR SOCk MOnkey.
We had brunch with her teacher from last year, the amazing woman behind The Woman Center. She encouraged Lilly to be a brave writer, coming up with her words and letters all by herself to tell a story. Lilly took those instructions fully to heart, and wrote a story. I am a proud Mama tonight.
Filling My Days
With Sophia beginning school this year, I thought I would have so much time on my hands. I worried, in fact. I worried that I would be bored and lonely, no longer constantly surrounded by children.
And so, I began to volunteer. Partly because of those fears. Partly out of a strong desire to begin putting my time and energy toward something outside of myself. That social worker side of me was calling to come out again, so I let her.
And now I am working on so much that I hardly have time to nap every afternoon! Everything I'm involved in is really quite exciting. I'm sad to think that I'll be leaving it behind in less than a year. Take a look!
Bible Study:
I host a weekly Ladies Bible Study in our home. I have been hosting for nearly a year now, and I love it. Our group of ladies has changed dramatically from last year. And throughout the group, I constantly find it a refreshing and uplifting group of women who I cherish spending time with every week. Further, we are now in our second Beth Moore study. And what a treat! Our group is diverse, with ladies from different nations and different religious backgrounds. But each of us finds Beth Moore's studies challenging and interesting. We each find our faith deepened, and find the Bible newly interesting. We are currently studying The Tabernacle of the Old Testament. I was skeptical - how can this be interesting? But my goodness, it is! What a treat!
The Giving Tree:
I have taken a key role in administering a holiday program this year - much like the Holiday Friends program I ran when I worked at Beyond Housing. The Giving Tree matches expat organizations (primarily International Schools, but also large corporations and social clubs) with schools for children in need throuh Shanghai. Donors receive a shopping bag assigned to a specific child. They fill that bag with new coats, shoes and toys. They shop as if for Christmas, but they deliver as if for Chinese New Year. Its a lovely system, an easy sell to donors, and a wonderful way for expats to help out this community. We remain so separate from the local community during the year, that people seem quite eager to give back.
Music Together and Half the Sky Foundation:
This is the project which has captured my heart. I am working with a small and committed group of volunteers to bring the music into the orphanages of China. We hope to tailor the Music Together program to an orphanage setting, which is easily done. The biggest challenge will be crossing the language gap, and figuring out funding and support. But we've already crossed the first challenge. Through Half the Sky Foundation, we will run two trial classes in an orphanage in Changzhou. Half the Sky's premise of providing a stable and nurturing adult for every child in the orphanage pairs perfectly with Music Together's concept of teaching music through participation and modeling. Every child deserves to have music fill their days - maybe especially a child living in an orphanage.
And Sophia only goes to school 3 mornings per week - for 3 hours each hit! Photography has taken the backseat. You'll notice this blog has, too. Because lets face it - I'm not giving up that afternoon nap!
And so, I began to volunteer. Partly because of those fears. Partly out of a strong desire to begin putting my time and energy toward something outside of myself. That social worker side of me was calling to come out again, so I let her.
And now I am working on so much that I hardly have time to nap every afternoon! Everything I'm involved in is really quite exciting. I'm sad to think that I'll be leaving it behind in less than a year. Take a look!
Bible Study:
I host a weekly Ladies Bible Study in our home. I have been hosting for nearly a year now, and I love it. Our group of ladies has changed dramatically from last year. And throughout the group, I constantly find it a refreshing and uplifting group of women who I cherish spending time with every week. Further, we are now in our second Beth Moore study. And what a treat! Our group is diverse, with ladies from different nations and different religious backgrounds. But each of us finds Beth Moore's studies challenging and interesting. We each find our faith deepened, and find the Bible newly interesting. We are currently studying The Tabernacle of the Old Testament. I was skeptical - how can this be interesting? But my goodness, it is! What a treat!
The Giving Tree:
I have taken a key role in administering a holiday program this year - much like the Holiday Friends program I ran when I worked at Beyond Housing. The Giving Tree matches expat organizations (primarily International Schools, but also large corporations and social clubs) with schools for children in need throuh Shanghai. Donors receive a shopping bag assigned to a specific child. They fill that bag with new coats, shoes and toys. They shop as if for Christmas, but they deliver as if for Chinese New Year. Its a lovely system, an easy sell to donors, and a wonderful way for expats to help out this community. We remain so separate from the local community during the year, that people seem quite eager to give back.
Music Together and Half the Sky Foundation:
This is the project which has captured my heart. I am working with a small and committed group of volunteers to bring the music into the orphanages of China. We hope to tailor the Music Together program to an orphanage setting, which is easily done. The biggest challenge will be crossing the language gap, and figuring out funding and support. But we've already crossed the first challenge. Through Half the Sky Foundation, we will run two trial classes in an orphanage in Changzhou. Half the Sky's premise of providing a stable and nurturing adult for every child in the orphanage pairs perfectly with Music Together's concept of teaching music through participation and modeling. Every child deserves to have music fill their days - maybe especially a child living in an orphanage.
And Sophia only goes to school 3 mornings per week - for 3 hours each hit! Photography has taken the backseat. You'll notice this blog has, too. Because lets face it - I'm not giving up that afternoon nap!
Wednesday, October 28, 2009
Visualize Whirled Peas
Since many of you got a kick out of Lilly's story a few days ago, I thought I'd add another one. On a recent evening, the girls and I were playing and singing songs. We were singing the Bible song,
I've got peace like a river,
I've got peace like a river,
I've got peace like a river in my heart.
We'd been singing it off and on for quite a while, before Lilly asked a question.
In this song, are they talking about peas, the vegetable? Or are they talking about the pees that come out of your vulva?
I've got peace like a river,
I've got peace like a river,
I've got peace like a river in my heart.
We'd been singing it off and on for quite a while, before Lilly asked a question.
In this song, are they talking about peas, the vegetable? Or are they talking about the pees that come out of your vulva?
Monday, October 26, 2009
Purgatory
Dave received word today that his Security Clearance Investigation has been completed. If you have not been contacted, you are off the hook.
This is a relief, in one sense. Passing a milestone is always a relief.
But, this is not as dramatic as it may sound. Dave has not yet been granted Security Clearance. Here's the process from here.
Security Investigation:
During the Security Investigation, a few key people dug into Dave's life and sought out terrible secrets. They called some of our friends, some of our family members, and a few former employers. They researched a list of Dave's foreign contacts. We don't know the results of any of this research. We just know that its finished.
Adjudication:
And now Dave's file passed into the second phase of Security. Some files never enter Adjudication - some candidates are so very white bread, that by the time their Security Investigation is completed, they are automatically cleared. It seems that Dave has a few raisins in his bread, and a team of people must sit around and decide whether or not he is secure. Adjudication is playfully referred to as Purgatory by the FSO waiting community - as there is nothing you can do to move yourself out of Adjudication except wait and pray.
Final Suitability Review:
Once Security Clearance has been granted, the applicant's file moves on for Final Suitability Review. This is the last place for the government to cull the bad apples out of the basket. It usually goes quickly, and simply involves a review of the applicant's entire file.
The Register:
Once an applicant passes Final Suitability Review, they are placed on The Register. The Register is 5 lists of applicants, each organized by their "cone." Dave will be in the Political cone. Other cones are Management, Public Diplomacy, Consular and something else. Dave will wait patiently in line, along with other approved applicants in the Political cone. The Foreign Service is currently undergoing a dramatic hiring surge, due to years of neglect. This is great news for all people waiting on the register, as the State Department has scheduled 10 training classes next year. They begin aproximately every 6 weeks.
Each candidate waits on the register by their rank. The highest rank is 6.0 - Dave ranks 5.6. We feel pretty good about this rank, confident that he will not linger for years with such a low number. Everyone with a higher number will be called to join a class before him, and everyone with 5.6 who entered the register prior to Dave will be called before him as well. These are good odds.
We learned this morning that they're not amazing odds, though. Some more numbers: another Political candidate just joined the Register. With a 5.7, he is ranked 31 out of 112. We estimate that 20 people are pulled off of the Register for each class. We can not estimate how many people have been placed on the Do Not Call List - plenty of people do, and we will if we come too near to the due date.
So, don't expect us in DC for the January class. But Dave's still hopeful to be called for the February or March classes. After that point, he would join the Do Not Call List until June.
This is a relief, in one sense. Passing a milestone is always a relief.
But, this is not as dramatic as it may sound. Dave has not yet been granted Security Clearance. Here's the process from here.
Security Investigation:
During the Security Investigation, a few key people dug into Dave's life and sought out terrible secrets. They called some of our friends, some of our family members, and a few former employers. They researched a list of Dave's foreign contacts. We don't know the results of any of this research. We just know that its finished.
Adjudication:
And now Dave's file passed into the second phase of Security. Some files never enter Adjudication - some candidates are so very white bread, that by the time their Security Investigation is completed, they are automatically cleared. It seems that Dave has a few raisins in his bread, and a team of people must sit around and decide whether or not he is secure. Adjudication is playfully referred to as Purgatory by the FSO waiting community - as there is nothing you can do to move yourself out of Adjudication except wait and pray.
Final Suitability Review:
Once Security Clearance has been granted, the applicant's file moves on for Final Suitability Review. This is the last place for the government to cull the bad apples out of the basket. It usually goes quickly, and simply involves a review of the applicant's entire file.
The Register:
Once an applicant passes Final Suitability Review, they are placed on The Register. The Register is 5 lists of applicants, each organized by their "cone." Dave will be in the Political cone. Other cones are Management, Public Diplomacy, Consular and something else. Dave will wait patiently in line, along with other approved applicants in the Political cone. The Foreign Service is currently undergoing a dramatic hiring surge, due to years of neglect. This is great news for all people waiting on the register, as the State Department has scheduled 10 training classes next year. They begin aproximately every 6 weeks.
Each candidate waits on the register by their rank. The highest rank is 6.0 - Dave ranks 5.6. We feel pretty good about this rank, confident that he will not linger for years with such a low number. Everyone with a higher number will be called to join a class before him, and everyone with 5.6 who entered the register prior to Dave will be called before him as well. These are good odds.
We learned this morning that they're not amazing odds, though. Some more numbers: another Political candidate just joined the Register. With a 5.7, he is ranked 31 out of 112. We estimate that 20 people are pulled off of the Register for each class. We can not estimate how many people have been placed on the Do Not Call List - plenty of people do, and we will if we come too near to the due date.
So, don't expect us in DC for the January class. But Dave's still hopeful to be called for the February or March classes. After that point, he would join the Do Not Call List until June.
Bump
Nearing the end of our usual neighborhood lane walk this evening, Lynne and I were casually chatting and watching Sophia "dance-walk" down the sidewalk with Lilly trailing a bit. Suddenly we hear a small crash behind us. Turning around, Lilly has her hand to her forehead and is coming out from behind a bamboo scaffold on the sidewalk. After making sure she was ok, we asked how she bumped into it.
"I had my eyes closed."
Yeah, that would do it. Why, we wondered.
"I wanted to be surprised when we got home."
"I had my eyes closed."
Yeah, that would do it. Why, we wondered.
"I wanted to be surprised when we got home."
Thursday, October 22, 2009
Made In China
The time for announcements has come. You may have picked up the previous allusions, or been told directly. If not, its time you know that our family is growing by leaps and bounds.
As frequent readers know, we are adopting a child from China. This is moving along as expected, except that the wait time seems to grow by a year every few months. When we began the adoption process, we expected Mei Mei to join our family and enter our home by the end of this year. Early 2010 would have been the latest. We now expect her to join our family possibly 36 months from now.
We trust this timing to God's hands, and continue with the adoption process. But we are taking the age gap into our own hands. I am now 10 weeks pregnant, and Baby #3 will arrive in early May. Dave and my father have decreed that this child will be a boy, and so we will proceed to call him Jake. The same thing we called Sophia, until the ultrasound picture displayed her to be a girl.
Jake comes at wonderful timing in many ways, and we are nothing but excited. But he will certainly make this year more complicated.
Dave still waits for his security clearance. Once he receives his security clearance, we expect things to move very quickly. We expect to be in DC within 2-4 months of notification that Dave is trustworthy. We will have no significant notice.
Now, Dave could receive security clearance tomorrow. The next training class begins in January, and we could be invited. Although this is absolutely possible, we wouldn't call it likely.
Now, Dave could receive security clearance in June, 2010. In that case, Jake will not only be Made in China. He will also be Born in China, coming with a Certificate of International Birth. Kinda cool, huh? The State Department would buy us 5 plane tickets instead of 4, and we would get 100 pounds more space in air freight. Not a bad deal.
Or, Dave could receive security clearance in April and be forced to turn down the invitation to the May training class. He would receive no penalty for this, and would have more time to focus on little Jake. This would not be a bad option.
The problem with all of these is that it is impossible to plan. Do we arrange for an OB in the DC area? Do we pay for the full pre-natal package in Shanghai? We do ship our infant gear here, or leave it in Chicago and pick it up on the way? Questions with no answer.
We are comfortable with delivering in China. The medical system for expatriates is quite elitist, and I will be kept separate from the local Chinese. Or at least, local Chinese without quite a bit of money. This elitist separation makes me uncomfortable. But delivering at a local hospital makes me more uncomfortable. So, I am delivering at Shanghai East International Medical Center - a very clean and cheerful floor within a crowded, dark and dirty local hospital. I am seeing Dr. Kong, an OB trained in China and with tremendous street cred among the expat women. As I have done this a few times before, I am quite confident that delivering a baby is a simple process for an experienced obstetrician. Should we face any serious complications, I am in contact with my fabulous OB in the states, and would hop a flight out of China as quickly as possible. But I have no reason to believe that should be necessary. I am entirely comfortable with delivering in China.
Or I was. Until I went to the hospital this morning to pick up a prescription. I jumped in the bathroom quickly on the way out. I frequently see bathrooms, as Jake is a lover of water. He has me drinking 4-6 liters of water on a daily basis, and seeing the insides of many town bathrooms. I washed my hands as I finished. In the way of a nurse who had just finished at the toilet, she just walked passed me.
That's right. The nurse at the hospital walked out of the toilet without washing her hands.
I'm having trouble not getting worked up about this.
As frequent readers know, we are adopting a child from China. This is moving along as expected, except that the wait time seems to grow by a year every few months. When we began the adoption process, we expected Mei Mei to join our family and enter our home by the end of this year. Early 2010 would have been the latest. We now expect her to join our family possibly 36 months from now.
We trust this timing to God's hands, and continue with the adoption process. But we are taking the age gap into our own hands. I am now 10 weeks pregnant, and Baby #3 will arrive in early May. Dave and my father have decreed that this child will be a boy, and so we will proceed to call him Jake. The same thing we called Sophia, until the ultrasound picture displayed her to be a girl.
Jake comes at wonderful timing in many ways, and we are nothing but excited. But he will certainly make this year more complicated.
Dave still waits for his security clearance. Once he receives his security clearance, we expect things to move very quickly. We expect to be in DC within 2-4 months of notification that Dave is trustworthy. We will have no significant notice.
Now, Dave could receive security clearance tomorrow. The next training class begins in January, and we could be invited. Although this is absolutely possible, we wouldn't call it likely.
Now, Dave could receive security clearance in June, 2010. In that case, Jake will not only be Made in China. He will also be Born in China, coming with a Certificate of International Birth. Kinda cool, huh? The State Department would buy us 5 plane tickets instead of 4, and we would get 100 pounds more space in air freight. Not a bad deal.
Or, Dave could receive security clearance in April and be forced to turn down the invitation to the May training class. He would receive no penalty for this, and would have more time to focus on little Jake. This would not be a bad option.
The problem with all of these is that it is impossible to plan. Do we arrange for an OB in the DC area? Do we pay for the full pre-natal package in Shanghai? We do ship our infant gear here, or leave it in Chicago and pick it up on the way? Questions with no answer.
We are comfortable with delivering in China. The medical system for expatriates is quite elitist, and I will be kept separate from the local Chinese. Or at least, local Chinese without quite a bit of money. This elitist separation makes me uncomfortable. But delivering at a local hospital makes me more uncomfortable. So, I am delivering at Shanghai East International Medical Center - a very clean and cheerful floor within a crowded, dark and dirty local hospital. I am seeing Dr. Kong, an OB trained in China and with tremendous street cred among the expat women. As I have done this a few times before, I am quite confident that delivering a baby is a simple process for an experienced obstetrician. Should we face any serious complications, I am in contact with my fabulous OB in the states, and would hop a flight out of China as quickly as possible. But I have no reason to believe that should be necessary. I am entirely comfortable with delivering in China.
Or I was. Until I went to the hospital this morning to pick up a prescription. I jumped in the bathroom quickly on the way out. I frequently see bathrooms, as Jake is a lover of water. He has me drinking 4-6 liters of water on a daily basis, and seeing the insides of many town bathrooms. I washed my hands as I finished. In the way of a nurse who had just finished at the toilet, she just walked passed me.
That's right. The nurse at the hospital walked out of the toilet without washing her hands.
I'm having trouble not getting worked up about this.
Tuesday, October 20, 2009
A More Beautiful Life
purposefully posted after the previous post - more balanced if you read A More Difficult Life first
Life here is certainly more difficult. Without a doubt.
But life here has such a beauty about it as well - a beauty we never found in our other homes.
Although we can not speak with our neighbors, we still communicate in small ways. Many have earned smiles and nihao! from our girls. Some have shown us paintings they are working on, or flowers they are growing. I find such joy in these simple interactions.
We have fresh food within foodsteps of our home. We live just around the corner from Wulumuqi Lu. When we walk down that street, we say we are going for a walk in China. Although many of the things on the street are nauseating, so many are pleasant as well. The fruit and vegetable stands sell beautiful produce, much fresher than what I purchase at the supermarket. People sell fresh treats - newly pressed waffles, freshly steamed buns, all sorts of savory crepes.
The streets are lined with trees, and even the hottest days of the summer were a lovely time for a walk.
We live in the heart of Shanghai's restaurant zone. We are within easy walking distance of many fabulous restaurants, from the very nice and expensive to the very simple and affordable. We take full advantage.
Nearly every restaurant in town will deliver to us at no fee.
Dave's commute only takes 15 minutes.
The girls' commute to school only takes 3 minutes.
Our home is lovely, with warmly painted walls and fantastic details on the stairs and window transoms. It feels like home.
Our rooftop terrace is amazing. The perfect place for a quiet brunch, a late-night bottle of wine, a dinner party, a racing small bikes. We spent as much time up there as we can.
We take the bad with the good. We are certainly living a more beautiful life.
Life here is certainly more difficult. Without a doubt.
But life here has such a beauty about it as well - a beauty we never found in our other homes.
Although we can not speak with our neighbors, we still communicate in small ways. Many have earned smiles and nihao! from our girls. Some have shown us paintings they are working on, or flowers they are growing. I find such joy in these simple interactions.
We have fresh food within foodsteps of our home. We live just around the corner from Wulumuqi Lu. When we walk down that street, we say we are going for a walk in China. Although many of the things on the street are nauseating, so many are pleasant as well. The fruit and vegetable stands sell beautiful produce, much fresher than what I purchase at the supermarket. People sell fresh treats - newly pressed waffles, freshly steamed buns, all sorts of savory crepes.
The streets are lined with trees, and even the hottest days of the summer were a lovely time for a walk.
We live in the heart of Shanghai's restaurant zone. We are within easy walking distance of many fabulous restaurants, from the very nice and expensive to the very simple and affordable. We take full advantage.
Nearly every restaurant in town will deliver to us at no fee.
Dave's commute only takes 15 minutes.
The girls' commute to school only takes 3 minutes.
Our home is lovely, with warmly painted walls and fantastic details on the stairs and window transoms. It feels like home.
Our rooftop terrace is amazing. The perfect place for a quiet brunch, a late-night bottle of wine, a dinner party, a racing small bikes. We spent as much time up there as we can.
We take the bad with the good. We are certainly living a more beautiful life.
A More Difficult Life
Moving to our current home has reminded me how difficult life in China can be. We no longer have a driver, and we no longer live inside a complex. This means that a crazy number of things are now difficult:
If my children are going with me, I must be going somewhere within walking distance.
I can walk to the Metro, but they have no elevators and our local escalator is broken - not so stroller friendly.
I can only walk to the grocery by taking the Metro.
I am a 10-20 minute walk from the nearest playground.
The public bathroom nearby are all smelly, filthy and quite frequently used.
The stuff they sell on the street can be nauseating - live bull frogs, dead chickens, glazed duck heads.
People spit, pee, ride their bikes and their motorbikes on the already crowded sidewalks.
I can not communicate with any of my neighbors.
People have again begun touching our kids - grabbing their hair, speaking to them like pet dogs.
The neighborhood is under ridiculous amounts of construction - such that I often feel that breathing is an unsafe choice.
The change in school has made a change in our lives as well.
Sophia now attends school 3 mornings a week - giving me 3 mornings a week to get my errands run.
School is now only 3 hours rather than 5 - giving me only 9 hours a week to get my errands run.
This school makes no move to foster community. The girls have made friends, but I have not.
Bugs!
I live in constant fear of monster cockroaches, keeping everything fully sealed and taking out the garbage like a maniac. I never leave a door open for more than a few seconds, and have only recently been persuaded to use the screen doors.
We constantly swat at flies, mosquitos and sewer flies. Because although the pest control service seems to have scared them away from the interior of the house, they still seem to congregate around the front door.
I see rats in my neighborhood, and live in terror that one of these monsters will one day show up under my kitchen table.
If my children are going with me, I must be going somewhere within walking distance.
I can walk to the Metro, but they have no elevators and our local escalator is broken - not so stroller friendly.
I can only walk to the grocery by taking the Metro.
I am a 10-20 minute walk from the nearest playground.
The public bathroom nearby are all smelly, filthy and quite frequently used.
The stuff they sell on the street can be nauseating - live bull frogs, dead chickens, glazed duck heads.
People spit, pee, ride their bikes and their motorbikes on the already crowded sidewalks.
I can not communicate with any of my neighbors.
People have again begun touching our kids - grabbing their hair, speaking to them like pet dogs.
The neighborhood is under ridiculous amounts of construction - such that I often feel that breathing is an unsafe choice.
The change in school has made a change in our lives as well.
Sophia now attends school 3 mornings a week - giving me 3 mornings a week to get my errands run.
School is now only 3 hours rather than 5 - giving me only 9 hours a week to get my errands run.
This school makes no move to foster community. The girls have made friends, but I have not.
Bugs!
I live in constant fear of monster cockroaches, keeping everything fully sealed and taking out the garbage like a maniac. I never leave a door open for more than a few seconds, and have only recently been persuaded to use the screen doors.
We constantly swat at flies, mosquitos and sewer flies. Because although the pest control service seems to have scared them away from the interior of the house, they still seem to congregate around the front door.
I see rats in my neighborhood, and live in terror that one of these monsters will one day show up under my kitchen table.
Sunday, October 11, 2009
Return to China
On Friday night, we missed the photography museum but did thoroughly enjoy a quiet evening and a delicious dinner at Yebisu Garden Place. The girls did NOT sleep on Saturday, but were little troopers all day long, and have enjoyed a quiet day with their toys and their own space all day today.
Japan has consistently given me the worst culture shock, upon my return to China. Japan is a thoroughly developed nation, and it reminds me that China has a long way to go. China still struggles with pollution, while Japan has recycling bins every few feet and bright blue skies. China still struggles with hygiene, while even Japan's public bathrooms sparkle. China's crowds push each other and treat the person next to them with a striking lack of respect, while people in crowded Tokyo wait patiently and smile helpfully.
But even more strikingly, Japan seems to have struck the balance that I fear China is running away from. Japanese cities - Kyoto certainly, but also Tokyo and Hiroshima - feel distinctly Japanese. They have a very Asian flair to them, which appears in many different aspects of life. A specifically Japanese style of dress looks striking; specifically Japanese architecture abounds; and most restaurants serve distinctly Japanese food. There is plenty of Western influence in Japan - no doubt. It seems like the country has become remarkably Western since World War II. But it has remained remarkably Japanese, and that's where I fear China will fail. Shanghai has a strong tendency to push out the Chinese, in favor of a quick copy of the West. The quick copies rarely satisfy, and you're left with nothing authentic in a city of copies. This may be more true of Shanghai than of China. But I still worry that China's fast forward into modern economic times and parity with Western cultures will end up throwing away what is distinctly Chinese about daily life, leaving a rather bland place behind.
Japan has consistently given me the worst culture shock, upon my return to China. Japan is a thoroughly developed nation, and it reminds me that China has a long way to go. China still struggles with pollution, while Japan has recycling bins every few feet and bright blue skies. China still struggles with hygiene, while even Japan's public bathrooms sparkle. China's crowds push each other and treat the person next to them with a striking lack of respect, while people in crowded Tokyo wait patiently and smile helpfully.
But even more strikingly, Japan seems to have struck the balance that I fear China is running away from. Japanese cities - Kyoto certainly, but also Tokyo and Hiroshima - feel distinctly Japanese. They have a very Asian flair to them, which appears in many different aspects of life. A specifically Japanese style of dress looks striking; specifically Japanese architecture abounds; and most restaurants serve distinctly Japanese food. There is plenty of Western influence in Japan - no doubt. It seems like the country has become remarkably Western since World War II. But it has remained remarkably Japanese, and that's where I fear China will fail. Shanghai has a strong tendency to push out the Chinese, in favor of a quick copy of the West. The quick copies rarely satisfy, and you're left with nothing authentic in a city of copies. This may be more true of Shanghai than of China. But I still worry that China's fast forward into modern economic times and parity with Western cultures will end up throwing away what is distinctly Chinese about daily life, leaving a rather bland place behind.
Friday, October 09, 2009
A Week in Tokyo
The first three days, Dave saw the inside of a conference room. The girls and I explored on our own. This did not take us very far - to the Gap in Harajuku to replace the sandal Lilly dropped out of the stroller on a walk; to the English picturebook section of a bookstore; to the Muji flagship store; to McDonalds. We would carve out some time in the evenings for walks and dinners in Roppongi, but spent the bulk of these days keeping two children happy and napping on schedule.
Thursday was Dave's first day off. While Monday through Wednesday saw the effects of a typhoon skirting Japan on the Pacific coast, Thursday dawned bright and beautiful. With worries about mercurial weather brewing, we headed to the Edo-Tokyo Museum for some sheltered history on the city. When Tokyo first became a prominent city and capital, it was called Edo. Some years later, the named changed to Tokyo. The museum had some impressive artifacts and enough interaction to keep the girls entertained. Sharp little Lilly spent lots of time studying old paintings and models, taking advantage of a longer attention span than her mother has. The Edo portion of the museum had loads of things to look at, but precious little descriptions in English. But the portions on World War II and the rapid growth of Tokyo afterward were well described and quite interesting. I found it remarkable how Tokyo during World War II as viewed through a history museum looked remarkably similar to London at the same time period. Air raid sirens and tape on the windows. And the quick growth of the economy after the war sounded much like America - with a sudden rise in the purchase of homes in the suburbs (because Tokyo was rubble), and the sudden availability of machines to make home life easier. The difference being that Tokyo was not only gaining washing machines for the first time, but also couches and dining room tables. Japan was taking in Western culture in one big gulp - much like Shanghai right now. It is relaxing to see how Japan has melded Japanese culture with Western economics today. I only hope that China reaches such a peaceful point in the future as well.
In the afternoon, we pushed the girls straight through their naps and on to Meiji-Jingu Shrine. After a week spent indoors because of the rain, we could not bring ourselves back to the hotel on what turned out to be a gorgeous fall day. The shrine is surrounded by thick woods, with gravel roads neatly carved through. A truly delicious way to explore a wood without touching it. The girls enjoyed the chance to run free, and we loved the smell of trees and the dappled blue sky above. The shrine was lovely as well, but not really the point to us.
Sophia fell asleep on the way home, ruining our chances of an early bedtime and an early rise this morning. We didn't wake until 9am this morning, so we didn't leave until 10. Significant once you know our morning destination was the Tsukiji Fish Market, the largest wholesale fish market in the world. As the Tsukiji Market itself is a wholesale market, surrounding it has inevitably grown another market. This is a large fish market - selling today's catch to home chefs, alongside pots and steamers and soy sauce and vegetables. A very vibrant market, because it seemed eager to please tourists and locals alike. Plenty of sushi places filled the streets, and we simply could not resist. We lined our family up at the bar of a small sushi place, one where the plates of sushi wind around the counter and you grab the one you like. The girls weren't too impressed, although Lilly made a valiant effort. They filled up on hot dogs and french fries a little later. But Dave and I both enjoyed ourselves. I know I shouldn't have - sushi is an absolute no-no these days. But who can go to Japan; who can go to the Tsukiji Fish Market in Japan; who can be near the freshest sushi in the world, and not taste some? I focused on its being the freshest sushi in the world, stayed away from the sake, and feel fine so many hours later.
The market itself is a real experience, even at noon. The place is at its busiest before dawn, when the fishing boats have unloaded their catch and the restauranteurs and shop keepers descend upon the place in their galoshes to pick the best cuts of fresh fish. By the time we reached the market, no one was selling. But it was still a busy place, and very clearly a (huge) place of business. Tight, wet cobblestone alleys went through loads of stalls being cleaned arduously by their proprieters while fishheads the size of my children lay on the floor as waste.
After we filled up the girls with solidly American food, we headed to the dock for a cruise up the Sumida River. The architecture from the river wasn't an impressive as I had imagined, but traveling under the many bridges was fun. And seeing a city from a different vantage point is always enjoyable. Bonus that the girls loved it, and Dave and I got to rest for a while. We ended the afternoon at another shrine, which we hit less for the shrine and more for the shopping leading up to it. I had been searching for all sorts of kitchely Japanese things - kimonos for the girls, lovely porcelain bowls, old lanterns. And although I saw these things being used in those historic settings, I rarely saw them for sale at a tourist's price. On this row, I did find the kimonos. And having paid a bit more than I wanted to, we've decided that this will have to suffice for our Japanese souveneirs. No doubt - this is an expensive country. Good thing we've come with only two children, and both of them under 4 years old! Luckily, they've gotten free access to everything we've done. No more trips to Japan as the family grows!
This afternoon, everyone sleeps. This evening, we explore the Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photography and dine at Yebisu Garden Place. Our flight leaves tomorrow evening at 7pm, leaving us the morning to tire our children enough that they will sleep on the train en route to the airport. Will be perfect timing - and we'll be masters to pull it off. The Chinese holiday continues through Sunday, leaving the family a perfectly relaxing day to recuperate together from travel before everyone jumps back into our busy schedules.
Thursday was Dave's first day off. While Monday through Wednesday saw the effects of a typhoon skirting Japan on the Pacific coast, Thursday dawned bright and beautiful. With worries about mercurial weather brewing, we headed to the Edo-Tokyo Museum for some sheltered history on the city. When Tokyo first became a prominent city and capital, it was called Edo. Some years later, the named changed to Tokyo. The museum had some impressive artifacts and enough interaction to keep the girls entertained. Sharp little Lilly spent lots of time studying old paintings and models, taking advantage of a longer attention span than her mother has. The Edo portion of the museum had loads of things to look at, but precious little descriptions in English. But the portions on World War II and the rapid growth of Tokyo afterward were well described and quite interesting. I found it remarkable how Tokyo during World War II as viewed through a history museum looked remarkably similar to London at the same time period. Air raid sirens and tape on the windows. And the quick growth of the economy after the war sounded much like America - with a sudden rise in the purchase of homes in the suburbs (because Tokyo was rubble), and the sudden availability of machines to make home life easier. The difference being that Tokyo was not only gaining washing machines for the first time, but also couches and dining room tables. Japan was taking in Western culture in one big gulp - much like Shanghai right now. It is relaxing to see how Japan has melded Japanese culture with Western economics today. I only hope that China reaches such a peaceful point in the future as well.
In the afternoon, we pushed the girls straight through their naps and on to Meiji-Jingu Shrine. After a week spent indoors because of the rain, we could not bring ourselves back to the hotel on what turned out to be a gorgeous fall day. The shrine is surrounded by thick woods, with gravel roads neatly carved through. A truly delicious way to explore a wood without touching it. The girls enjoyed the chance to run free, and we loved the smell of trees and the dappled blue sky above. The shrine was lovely as well, but not really the point to us.
Sophia fell asleep on the way home, ruining our chances of an early bedtime and an early rise this morning. We didn't wake until 9am this morning, so we didn't leave until 10. Significant once you know our morning destination was the Tsukiji Fish Market, the largest wholesale fish market in the world. As the Tsukiji Market itself is a wholesale market, surrounding it has inevitably grown another market. This is a large fish market - selling today's catch to home chefs, alongside pots and steamers and soy sauce and vegetables. A very vibrant market, because it seemed eager to please tourists and locals alike. Plenty of sushi places filled the streets, and we simply could not resist. We lined our family up at the bar of a small sushi place, one where the plates of sushi wind around the counter and you grab the one you like. The girls weren't too impressed, although Lilly made a valiant effort. They filled up on hot dogs and french fries a little later. But Dave and I both enjoyed ourselves. I know I shouldn't have - sushi is an absolute no-no these days. But who can go to Japan; who can go to the Tsukiji Fish Market in Japan; who can be near the freshest sushi in the world, and not taste some? I focused on its being the freshest sushi in the world, stayed away from the sake, and feel fine so many hours later.
The market itself is a real experience, even at noon. The place is at its busiest before dawn, when the fishing boats have unloaded their catch and the restauranteurs and shop keepers descend upon the place in their galoshes to pick the best cuts of fresh fish. By the time we reached the market, no one was selling. But it was still a busy place, and very clearly a (huge) place of business. Tight, wet cobblestone alleys went through loads of stalls being cleaned arduously by their proprieters while fishheads the size of my children lay on the floor as waste.
After we filled up the girls with solidly American food, we headed to the dock for a cruise up the Sumida River. The architecture from the river wasn't an impressive as I had imagined, but traveling under the many bridges was fun. And seeing a city from a different vantage point is always enjoyable. Bonus that the girls loved it, and Dave and I got to rest for a while. We ended the afternoon at another shrine, which we hit less for the shrine and more for the shopping leading up to it. I had been searching for all sorts of kitchely Japanese things - kimonos for the girls, lovely porcelain bowls, old lanterns. And although I saw these things being used in those historic settings, I rarely saw them for sale at a tourist's price. On this row, I did find the kimonos. And having paid a bit more than I wanted to, we've decided that this will have to suffice for our Japanese souveneirs. No doubt - this is an expensive country. Good thing we've come with only two children, and both of them under 4 years old! Luckily, they've gotten free access to everything we've done. No more trips to Japan as the family grows!
This afternoon, everyone sleeps. This evening, we explore the Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photography and dine at Yebisu Garden Place. Our flight leaves tomorrow evening at 7pm, leaving us the morning to tire our children enough that they will sleep on the train en route to the airport. Will be perfect timing - and we'll be masters to pull it off. The Chinese holiday continues through Sunday, leaving the family a perfectly relaxing day to recuperate together from travel before everyone jumps back into our busy schedules.
Sunday, October 04, 2009
Medical Clearance - RECEIVED
At of 3:03:44 on September 30, Dave has been determined medically sound for worldwide availability. This means that his health will not bar him from employment in the foreign service, or any particular placement. The rest of the family has yet to receive medical clearance. But even if we do not receive worldwide availability, Dave is still eligible for employment because of his clearance.
This step has been completed.
Now we wait for security clearance. People who passed their interview together with Dave have already received security clearance - so theoretically, it could come within the next few weeks. But people who passed their interview months ago still wait. We have no information on how long we will wait. We are estimating he will receive Security Clearance sometime in the next 10 months.
This step has been completed.
Now we wait for security clearance. People who passed their interview together with Dave have already received security clearance - so theoretically, it could come within the next few weeks. But people who passed their interview months ago still wait. We have no information on how long we will wait. We are estimating he will receive Security Clearance sometime in the next 10 months.
Saturday, October 03, 2009
Kyoto Travelogue
As my children grow more verbal, my ability to write interesting and cohesive sentences wanes. Still, Dave tells me not to allow the perfect to be the enemy of the good. Even though I have no lovely prose to describe Kyoto to you, I will still write.
We left Shanghai on Wednesday morning, the day before the October holiday began. October 1st marks the anniversary of the People's Republic of China, and begins a 5 day national holiday. This year, the Moon Cake Festival happens to fall in the center of those 5 days, lengthening the holiday by another day. As the Chinese governments moves around weekends, this year has provided Thursday - Thursday of holiday, with most people taking vacation next Friday to have nearly 2 weeks of free vacation. Dave was asked to present at a conference in Tokyo over the break, and so we are vacationing in Japan.
We arrived in Wednesday evening, after a plane to Tokyo and 2 trains to Kyoto. We leave for Tokyo via that same train tomorrow morning. Dave's conference begins with dinner tomorrow evening.
Kyoto can be an overwhelming city, chock full of UNESCO world heritage sites, and with beautiful gardens and serene shrines around every corner. Quite literally. One of the most interesting parts of this city is to simply walk the streets. Amid tall buildings coming straight to the edge of the narrow roads, will be an ancient shrine with its simple wooden frame. Kyoto is certainly a city. And as Japan is a landlocked and populous nation, its people have learned to build up. Kyoto has shop upon shop, even in the downtown (where we are staying). Every house fronts the street individually, and often with a storefront which clearly dates back over 100 years. But built on top, or filling the next spot may be floors rising up to 6 or 7. It feels very urban, with people walking the streets and biking around town well into the evening. The metro keeps busy and the trains run full. But sometime the city has a peace about it.
Possibly this is just Japan, as opposed to China. China has no peace. The future is breaking into China at a crushing pace, and people are racing to keep up or sullenly being left behind. There is no peace in China.
I find it difficult to remember that within living memory, Japan faced total reconstruction - especially in certain cities. The culture has rebuilt itself relatively recently. But still, these people live moderate lives in the middle class. People seem happy, calm. Boutiques with edgy fashions line the shopping streets, alongside small old shrines and simple fountains.
On Thursday, we explored our neighborhood. We're staying in a ryokan downtown. Ryokans my be Japan's form of a bed & breakfast - the experience is very much like visiting a family member's home. Our family has our own room - with tatami mats on the floor, a low table surrounded by cushions for breakfast or tea, and simple mattress laid neatly on the floor at bedtime. We share communal sink and toilet. And they have the requisite bath - a two room affair, the first for preparing for the bath, the second for both showering to become fully clean and then climbing into the bath. And oh, what a bath! The deep tub is filled to the brim with neatly hot water - so full that it plunges out when you step in. The water remains the same temperature throughout the bath, and eventually becomes a bit intoxicating.
We walked the local streets, explored a small Kaleidoscope museum (fantastic!), picked up bento boxes and headed to the Imperial Palace Park for a picnic. We sat directly on the grass (forbidden in a Chinese park), smelled the trees, and gazed at the blue sky while the girls ran through the grass in their barefeet. We could have stayed for hours. Back to the hotel for naps, and then we walked the other direction in the evening. Toward the city's river, and a small road called Pontocho which borders the river with old shops and restaurants, all lined with traditional Japanese lanterns and looking very authentic.
Friday it rained. This put a strong damper on our plans, but who can sit in a hotel all day? Certainly not two preschoolers, staying in a room where the walls are literally made of paper. So. We took a train to the edge of town to explore what was to be one of the loveliest gardens in Kyoto (descriptions of attractions in Kyoto tend toward strong hyperbole). We explored in the rain, until we were soaked through entirely. Then we just headed out of the garden as quickly as we could. We eventually hit a small restaurant on the banks of the river, empty except for a sleeping cat. The perfect place for two hungry children and two very wet adults. Tempura, noodles and tea fueled us well for the wet walk back to the hotel, where we all napped soundly. A simple dinner, and to bed early.
This morning was lovely, and our last full day in town. Dave had a full day planned. We headed to another shrine, way up on a hill. Luckily, we had brought our double stroller for the entire trip. Japan is wonderful stroller friendly - and not particularly pedestrian friendly. A very fortuitous choice. The shrine was wildly crowded, but the handicap accesible route was quiet and brought us around all of the buildings through a back door of sorts. It allowed wonderful pictures from very differnet viewpoints, and made the walk much more comfortable. The shrine was lovely, with beautiful light and a bright blue sky framing its orange wood frames. Set in the hills and surrounded by trees, the walks around it were lovely if only for the park-like feeling. The shops down the hill were loads of fun, too - and the restaurants, and snack shops filling the girls with free samples.
Back for naps, which no one actually took, leading to a very hard evening for all of us. We headed to the Philosopher's Walk - but en route we all got so tired and hungry that we aborted the attempt, and eventually ended up at a truly lovely little Italian restaurant. Their menu was in Japanese, except for the Italian headings. But the waiter spoke fluent restaurant Italian, and so we had no trouble ordering. They were very kindly helpful, and very generously patient with our girls. And Dave and I relaxed in the setting of a corner bistro, where a table of friends gathered around plates of pasta and bottles of wine. Jealous of the wine, at least our children had stopped yelling.
Tomorrow to Tokyo - and hopefully we'll reach the hotel room in time to grab much a needed nap for our poor Sophia.
We left Shanghai on Wednesday morning, the day before the October holiday began. October 1st marks the anniversary of the People's Republic of China, and begins a 5 day national holiday. This year, the Moon Cake Festival happens to fall in the center of those 5 days, lengthening the holiday by another day. As the Chinese governments moves around weekends, this year has provided Thursday - Thursday of holiday, with most people taking vacation next Friday to have nearly 2 weeks of free vacation. Dave was asked to present at a conference in Tokyo over the break, and so we are vacationing in Japan.
We arrived in Wednesday evening, after a plane to Tokyo and 2 trains to Kyoto. We leave for Tokyo via that same train tomorrow morning. Dave's conference begins with dinner tomorrow evening.
Kyoto can be an overwhelming city, chock full of UNESCO world heritage sites, and with beautiful gardens and serene shrines around every corner. Quite literally. One of the most interesting parts of this city is to simply walk the streets. Amid tall buildings coming straight to the edge of the narrow roads, will be an ancient shrine with its simple wooden frame. Kyoto is certainly a city. And as Japan is a landlocked and populous nation, its people have learned to build up. Kyoto has shop upon shop, even in the downtown (where we are staying). Every house fronts the street individually, and often with a storefront which clearly dates back over 100 years. But built on top, or filling the next spot may be floors rising up to 6 or 7. It feels very urban, with people walking the streets and biking around town well into the evening. The metro keeps busy and the trains run full. But sometime the city has a peace about it.
Possibly this is just Japan, as opposed to China. China has no peace. The future is breaking into China at a crushing pace, and people are racing to keep up or sullenly being left behind. There is no peace in China.
I find it difficult to remember that within living memory, Japan faced total reconstruction - especially in certain cities. The culture has rebuilt itself relatively recently. But still, these people live moderate lives in the middle class. People seem happy, calm. Boutiques with edgy fashions line the shopping streets, alongside small old shrines and simple fountains.
On Thursday, we explored our neighborhood. We're staying in a ryokan downtown. Ryokans my be Japan's form of a bed & breakfast - the experience is very much like visiting a family member's home. Our family has our own room - with tatami mats on the floor, a low table surrounded by cushions for breakfast or tea, and simple mattress laid neatly on the floor at bedtime. We share communal sink and toilet. And they have the requisite bath - a two room affair, the first for preparing for the bath, the second for both showering to become fully clean and then climbing into the bath. And oh, what a bath! The deep tub is filled to the brim with neatly hot water - so full that it plunges out when you step in. The water remains the same temperature throughout the bath, and eventually becomes a bit intoxicating.
We walked the local streets, explored a small Kaleidoscope museum (fantastic!), picked up bento boxes and headed to the Imperial Palace Park for a picnic. We sat directly on the grass (forbidden in a Chinese park), smelled the trees, and gazed at the blue sky while the girls ran through the grass in their barefeet. We could have stayed for hours. Back to the hotel for naps, and then we walked the other direction in the evening. Toward the city's river, and a small road called Pontocho which borders the river with old shops and restaurants, all lined with traditional Japanese lanterns and looking very authentic.
Friday it rained. This put a strong damper on our plans, but who can sit in a hotel all day? Certainly not two preschoolers, staying in a room where the walls are literally made of paper. So. We took a train to the edge of town to explore what was to be one of the loveliest gardens in Kyoto (descriptions of attractions in Kyoto tend toward strong hyperbole). We explored in the rain, until we were soaked through entirely. Then we just headed out of the garden as quickly as we could. We eventually hit a small restaurant on the banks of the river, empty except for a sleeping cat. The perfect place for two hungry children and two very wet adults. Tempura, noodles and tea fueled us well for the wet walk back to the hotel, where we all napped soundly. A simple dinner, and to bed early.
This morning was lovely, and our last full day in town. Dave had a full day planned. We headed to another shrine, way up on a hill. Luckily, we had brought our double stroller for the entire trip. Japan is wonderful stroller friendly - and not particularly pedestrian friendly. A very fortuitous choice. The shrine was wildly crowded, but the handicap accesible route was quiet and brought us around all of the buildings through a back door of sorts. It allowed wonderful pictures from very differnet viewpoints, and made the walk much more comfortable. The shrine was lovely, with beautiful light and a bright blue sky framing its orange wood frames. Set in the hills and surrounded by trees, the walks around it were lovely if only for the park-like feeling. The shops down the hill were loads of fun, too - and the restaurants, and snack shops filling the girls with free samples.
Back for naps, which no one actually took, leading to a very hard evening for all of us. We headed to the Philosopher's Walk - but en route we all got so tired and hungry that we aborted the attempt, and eventually ended up at a truly lovely little Italian restaurant. Their menu was in Japanese, except for the Italian headings. But the waiter spoke fluent restaurant Italian, and so we had no trouble ordering. They were very kindly helpful, and very generously patient with our girls. And Dave and I relaxed in the setting of a corner bistro, where a table of friends gathered around plates of pasta and bottles of wine. Jealous of the wine, at least our children had stopped yelling.
Tomorrow to Tokyo - and hopefully we'll reach the hotel room in time to grab much a needed nap for our poor Sophia.
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