Wednesday, April 30, 2008

Night Shopping

I hit the mall at 9:00 pm.

The girls had just gone to bed, and I hopped a taxi and whisked myself away to Super Brand Mall. This 7 storey behemoth of a shopping center was packed with people upon my arrival. Surely a mall this busy must stay open late, I thought. I'll have hours to shop.

9:45 and an announcement goes over the intercom. The voice sounds quite serious, but does not sound like English. I looked around - the mall is still packed, so I think nothing of it.

10:00 - another announcement is made. Upon the end of this announcement, everyone in the mall turns and heads toward the doors. I felt like I was part of a movie set, or possibly a very orderly emergency exit. Shoppers and employees alike quietly turned from their wares and headed toward the nearest escalator. Hundreds - no, easily thousands of people streamed out of the mall.

I managed to buy some sunglasses before the announcements began. Next time I'll shop during naptime.

Tuesday, April 29, 2008

Debt Free

Tonight Dave and I are throwing a little party. After the girls go to bed, he and I will celebrate finally being debt free! Of course, we're still carrying mortgages for both of the houses, but rent covers the mortgages and then some, so it hardly counts. And yes, we're still carrying my student loans. No use thinking about a 30 year debt, is there?

We took out a large loan to cover moving expenses back in September. Uncle H-- promised to reimburse us for expenses, rather than either covering the cost of fronting us the money. So w paid for airline tickets, moving trucks, shipping, and meals for 2 months of instable housing. Alll of this, Uncle H-- reimbursed us for. The trick was that we paid for them in dollars. Uncle H-- reimbursed in Remnimbi, or Chinese Yuan. And the Chinese are not keen to see their money leave the country, so transferring the reimbursement and future paychecks turned into quite a process.

Dave is the only one on our account at The Bank of China. It has been explained to us that it is not possible to have two people on the account. I doubt this is true, but we've got solid wills so I'm not worried about it. The challenge is that Dave is the only person who can transfer money out of that account. And this transfer of money takes multiple visits to arrange just the right paperwork. Each visit usually takes about 2 hours. Dave has trouble finding 2 hours in the middle of his work days to sit inside the Bank of China's lobby.

Besides which, we realized that there were some key costs for which we were not reimbursed. First was setting up home. Although not wildly expensive, it did cost us a sum of money to buy sheets, towels, plates and glasses for our new home. I am confident it was the right choice, but it certainly added to our credit card debt. But the hardest hit of all was our car. We purchased a 2005 Mazda 5 only 1 year before moving. Not only had depreciation hit us hard, but the market for this particular car had fallen to nearly zero. No one wanted to pay off our car loan and take this car off of our hands. So, knowing that we would not be regular attenders at church for the upcoming year, we decided to make our car our annual offering to the church. This was certainly the right choice, because it served many people dramatically and well. Besides which, we didn't have to trouble family or friends with trying to sell the car for us once we were gone. But, as any good offering, this gift was a sacrifice we paid for for months.

Until this month. The check was written today to pay off our last bit of debt. And finally we will gain the last benefit of expatriate life - being able to save money like crazy people. Because housing is covered, most expatriates find themselves able to save a lot of money while they're away. Our hope is to have a sizable downpayment for a new home upon our arrival back in the states, but goals of traveling every month during our stay in Asia and talk about adopting another child over the next few years may derail those plans. If so, so be it. At least we're no longer in debt!

Sunday, April 27, 2008

In the News

My parents forwarded me a newspaper article on China, wondering about our experience. As many of you know, the Olympics will take place in China this summer. This totalitarian government will open its arms to a deluge of foreigners in about 100 days, and so public security officials are tightening controls over daily life and putting in place all sorts of changes and regulations, most temporary and of the band-aid style. For instance, cars will be banned from the city center of Beijing and factories will temporarily stop work to provide blue skies for the few weeks surrounding the event.

New Restrictions Complicate Life for Foreigners Living in China

The visa rules, introduced last week with little explanation, restrict many visitors
to 30-day stays, replacing flexible, multiple-entry visas that had allowed
people to remain for up to a year. The new rules make it harder for foreigners
to live and work in Beijing without applying for residency permits, which can be
difficult to obtain.
Our family lives in China with residency permits, so the new visa restrictions have no impact upon us. They do affect many of Dave's co-workers, who live abroad but often come into China on meetings. With an annual multi-entry visa, someone living in Japan could come to meetings in China at their leisure, only needing a new visa once a year. Now, these same people must apply for a visa with every flight. It could also affect friends and family planning travel to visit us. The tourist visa you receive will only let you into the country once - no return trips in 9 months, and no hops to Hong Kong during your stay.

The new visa rules come at a time of heightened tension in Beijing and other
cities, where public anger has been directed at Western governments and overseas
news organizations seen as sympathetic to Tibetan indepenence.
My impression is that the public anger has been wildly overblown. Further, what would citizens have to be angry about? The restricted media gives only a mild impression of international problems, and describes the Dalai Lama as a terrorist figure.

Most Westerners readily acknowledge that they enjoy privileges lives, including
unspoken immunity from the tangle of rules that can complicate the lives of
ordinary Chinese. That may be about to change. Last week, English-language signs
began appearing on Beijing streets and in high-end apartment buildings directing
foreigners not staying in hotels to register with police. The regulations, which
are not new but are rarely enforced, promise steep fines for those who do not
comply.
I readily acknowledge the privileged life - if I never felt rich before, I am well aware that Americans are richer than the rest of the world while living in China. Our housing is extravagant compared to typical Shanghainese dwellings. Our food cost is outrageous compared to Chinese restaurants and markets. We are surrounded with help, whom we pay above the average monthly salary. Our ayis rescue things from our garbage, to sell or to use themselves. We certainly live lives of luxury.

And we are also immune from many Chinese laws. We are able to have as many children as we live, and we need not worry for our safety if we quietly criticize the government. We may come and go as we please. I have heard about the new enforcement of the police registration law. This has been a law for years, and I understand that it is generally enforced in small towns and predominantly Chinese neighborhoods. That it may be enforced in luxury communities is a rumor going around - difficult, because we have no idea how to register. The police will certainly not speak English.

We've also heard that cable tv will no longer be restricted by the government (we don't get the same HBO as you, or the same ESPN) but that it will priced beyond the reach of most Chinese. Supposedly the government has been open to journalists for the past few months, but rumor has it that this new law allowing journalists access to all portions of the state is not enforced solidly either, and that no one has been allowed into Tibet or its surrounding provinces for quite some time.

Friday, April 25, 2008

A Day in the Life

I am aware that my recent posts have leaned more toward the negative than the positive. I do not mean to give the impression that we are miserable here. Quite the contrary, I feel as if I've carved out a pretty good life for myself and as if Shanghai is my home. I just tend not to blog about the positive because it feels rather mundane. Still, I thought I'd let you in on our days' plans.

8:00 am
The girls and I wake up. They may have been in their room talking for up to half an hour, although I doubt it. Usually they've woken me within 10 minutes of their own waking.

8:45 am
After nearly an hour of play time, the girls are at the breakfast table, leaving me running back and forth trying to keep them satiated and happy. Breakfast is always like this, although rarely the other meals. Maybe because I let them play until they're starved. Maybe because I don't eat breakfast myself.

9:45 am
We've finished breakfast, gotten dressed, and managed to find shoes and socks for all 3 of us. We're out the door, S-- in the stroller and L-- walking. We're headed toward the playground where we will meet a friend.

Noon
L-- has requested pizza for lunch, and it sounds great to me. The complex has a small restaurant in its clubhouse, which delivers for no fee. We order a pizza for 35 RMB - about $5. They promise to deliver in 20 minutes, so we walk slowly home and play until it arrives.

12:20 pm
The delivery man has brought our pizza. The weather is beautiful - weather.com says 75 and sunny. So we've moved the girls' play table to the balcony and are eating our lunch in the open air. We watch the boats go by on the river. We watch the workers doing construction on the street below. We enjoy this beautiful day from the relative safety and comfort of our balcony.

1:00 pm
S-- is done. Usually she lasts until 2:00, but she has fallen apart and is begging for a nap. I oblige.

1:15 pm
Its important to me that the girls naps overlap for at least an hour, so L-- and I lay down to read books together and eventually sleep. Now that she has moved on from the crib, I need to lie down with her for naps or she will get up and play. She tends to nap in the guest room for just that reason. So we read for about 15 minutes and then both of us enjoyed a nap.

2:00 pm
I awoke as our ayi let herself into the apartment. Closing the door on L--'s sleep, I went out to give her a few instructions and then bake some cookies and check email.

3:00 pm
S--'s awake. Sometimes I get as much as 3 hours in this window, but today 1 hour will have to suffice. The good news is that when only 1 girl is awake, she tends to play independently quite happily. This explains why I'm blogging at 3:30.

4:00 pm
L-- will be awake by then. We will have some more organized playtime - maybe head to the playground to find some friends.

4:30 pm
We are having dinner with Dave and some friends on the other side of the river, so we really need to head out by now. The traffic to get through the tunnel is murder, and we'll still have to pick up Dave on our way to the restaurant. We're prepared for about an hour in the car right now - maybe more.

6:00 pm
We're meeting friends for dinner at a Mexican restaurant. We've not had Mexican since we arrived in Shanghai, and are looking forward to what claims to be the best in town. Just like burgers, we figure we need to be a few months away from the authentic version to appreciate it.

7:45 pm
We'll probably tear ourselves away from the margaritas and the conversation at about this time, so we can jump into the car and head home. If the traffic works with us, it could take us as little as 20 minutes to get back home.

8:30 pm
After baths, jammies and stories, the girls ought to be in bed with the lights out. Dave may work, but hopefully we'll be able to watch tv. We only get a few English channels. A few movie channels, that only show outdated movies; ESPN and Star Sports which do not lean toward American sports (they did not air the KU championship game!); Discovery, which keeps us amused for up to half an hour every once in a while; and CCTV9, the Chinese television's only English speaking channel - the go to place for the government line on anything, mascarading as current events. We'll pop in a tv show on DVD - we bought the entire first 3 seasons of Entourage for just over $2 on the street a week ago and have been working our way through it.

This day fits our normal routine, and looks much like the past 2 days. Tomorrow will be quite different, as its the weekend and we have Daddy all day long. We're heading to an EcoDesign Fair to find inroads into organic food and sustainable living in such a polluted and large city, and then Dave will head off during naptime to play in a basketball league with some of his co-workers. Dinner will be at home - if we're good, we'll have leftovers; if not, we'll order delivered Indian food.

Thursday, April 24, 2008

Dinner Out

Family Date, Wednesday night
Place: typical Chinese noodle joint
Ordered: 4 fried buns, 2 orders of dumplings with soup, 1 order of shrimp & rice dim sum
Followed by: 2 chocolate sundaes at McConalds

Total cost for dinner for 2 adults and 2 kids, including leftovers: 42 yuan, or about $6

Grown-Up Date, Thursday night
Place: Western restaurant in Xintiandi
Ordered: 1 burger and fries, 1 chicken enchilada with rice and beans, 1 brownie sundae, 1 glass of wine, 1 pint of beer

Total cost for dinner for 2 adults (no kids and no leftovers): 424 yuan, or about $60

A World of Extremes
Some of you are thinking, I could never eat that weird Chinese food - no wonder it's so cheap!!!Some of you are thinking, how could you eat American food like that when it's so expensive!!!

There is no middle of the road in China. Its either dirt cheap like the locals, or super pricey imports for the expats and tourists. In housing and clothes, these extremes can be quite frustrating. In our food, we're happy to take advantage of both options.

Moving

I can hardly even think right now.

We will be moving.

Sometime in the next 6 months we will jump the river.

I knew this when I enrolled L-- in a school in Hongqiao. I chose the only school I felt comfortable with for my child, and I am willing to live with the consequences.

Those consequences are moving. For the 2nd time within a year. This alone is hard enough. I've been in our home for 6 months now. Over the last month or two I've really begun to feel like I know what I'm doing. Like I've figured out how to shop and where is kid friendly and who is around when we're free and how to live happily in this place. And now we will have to do that all over again. Our friends will be a 30-45 minute drive away rather than a 5-15 minute walk away. In many ways, this really will be like starting over.

In some ways, that is fantastic. We will undoubtedly live in a more exciting part of town. Within walking distance we will have new parks, classic Chinese architecture with typical Chinese families living in it, loads of fantastic restaurants. From that standpoint, a move will be great. Each of the apartments we are considering have wonderful locations, and good views to boot. Our housing allowance will necessarily rise, which could buy us a nicer place as well. Probably not more space, but certainly higher floors. This is all good. This is all great.

But so many things we will be giving up. We will no longer have access to an outdoor pool. Or enough grass to have a picnic. We will leave the riverside parks, perfect not only for their beauty but also for their stretches of grassy space where our children can play without being mobbed by Chinese tourists.

I have watched poor L-- draw more and more inside of herself, partly due to the strangers approaching her constantly on the street - no doubt that will be worse after we move. But also because she has no 1 or 2 adults who are constantly in her life besides Dave and I. None of my friends show up so regularly that she is completely comfortable with them. Just as I'm trying to remedy that, to build a strong and regular community around myself and my children, I will have to pick her up and out of these people and drop her amongst strangers again. The same problem applies to myself. This is a lonely task, moving with young children. Especially moving to a city where most people do not care for their young children, but rather outsource that care to playschools or ayis. I have a skill for making friends, but when I'm the only person in the room with kids at my ankles it becomes much more difficult. It took a long time to develop a network of women who care for their children themselves in Lujiazui. I am not looking forward to developing that network again.

But lets think this through, faithfully and rationally.
- I do believe that sending L-- to The Wonder Center is the right choice. I am entirely confident in this decision.
- I do realize that we must move for her to attend this school.
- I do recognize that we will move to an expat neighborhood, and that her school lies within anothe expat neighborhood.
- I do understand that it will be easier to meet people when I bring along only 1 child, especially when that 1 child is social S--.
- I do recognize that having done this once, I now know better how to make myself comfortable. No doubt I will feel at home quicker in our new home than I did here.

All of these things are true.

Further, I do have faith that the Wonder Center is where God wants L-- to be this fall. If I can have that faith, than the faith that must follow is that He wants us to move and will make sure we live somewhere we can survive. Don't get comfortable, He must be saying to me.

That's just the challenge, isn't it? I'd rather like to get comfortable here. Its really difficult to live uncomfortable for an extended period of time. I'm ready for this to get easier.

The dirty of the situation is that we have to find someone to take over our lease. Our landlord will search, our agent will search, and we will search. Undoubtedly, we will find someone. This means showing our apartment while we're living in it. It also means moving as soon as we find someone to take over the lease. That's at a moment's notice, sometime in the next few months. That includes finding a new apartment as well as packing and getting into that new apartment. Probably all will happen within the span of a few very short weeks. Showing our house for sale was difficult, and it is not with eager anticipation that I look forward to showing our apartment for a quick turnaround.

My apologies for the rambling stream of consciousness. I feel its better to get this thought process recorded, but in my current frame of mind it wouldn't have been written well.

Wednesday, April 23, 2008

Chinese Pedicure

My toes look awful.

I had them painted last while in the states, and all that remains are ugly flecks of red on uneven toenails. As sandal season is now beginning, I thought it an appropriate time to find another pedicure. We put the girls to bed and I headed off. I reached my hopeful destination at 9:15 pm - The Massage Club around the corner from our complex.

The Massage Club was arranged much like a spa on the inside, decorated minimally with fountains, benches and soft silks. I asked if they offered pedicures, and although no one spoke English, they pointed toward their menu.

PEDICURE ... 30 RMB

With an exchange rate at around 7RMB per US Dollar, this meant a pedicure for under $5. I was in. I traded my sandals for their slippers and let the man guide me upstairs. He led me into a dimly lit room with 5 lounge chairs. I chose the chair in the middle, with the remote for the flat screen tv mounted on the wall. The room was otherwise empty, so I flipped on the television and watched CCTV9 - China's only channel broadcasting in English. A perky tour guide with an American accent took me through Tibet and the province to its north, keeping me well entertained for half an hour.

A few minutes into my program, a man entered with a small wooden tub filled with hot water. Really very hot water. So hot that it hurt to move my feet. They soaked for 5 minutes or so, and then he returned with an exacto-style razor and began the process of intricately smoothing my feet. To avoid laughing aloud, I concentrated on the broadcast and didn't watch him touch my feet.

He finished after about half an hour, and asked if I would like a foot massage. With American strip mall style pedicures as my only comparison, I expected a 5 minute foot massage before he applied paint to my nails so I nodded in assent.

Ninety minutes later he finished. This was a serious foot massage, more painful than relaxing. It very rarely tickled. He used hot cloths, mallets and the knuckles of both of his hands with strength.

And never painted my nails.

I walked back downstairs 2 hours later, with relaxed but still ugly toes. The woman at the computer charged me 118 RMB - apparently the pedicure only removed callouses. I then stayed for a 90 minute foot massage. It was lovely, and no doubt an international steal for 2 hours of pampering.

But I've got to admit, I was only in it for some paint on my toes. Nuts.

Monday, April 21, 2008

Differences Disappear

In moving here, I anticipated that the expat community would be very warm and welcoming. That simply being an outsider living in Shanghai would be enough in common to become close friends with everyone I met.

I was wrong, but only partly.

As it turns out, you do need more than one thing in common. You need 2 or 3 things in common. Being an expat goes without saying. Being an active parent to a young child is rather necessary for us. But just being a young parent isn't enough, either. I've connected with a lot of moms, and found many moms that I just don't click with.

Parenthetically, it is refreshing how welcoming this community is. I have never heard an unkind word spoken about anyone, or felt on the outside of a clique. People are very genuine, quick to open their hearts, and entirely welcoming of everyone they meet.

Still, sometimes having young kids in a foreign land is not enough to forge friendships. I've found that 1 more step is all it takes. But when you step back, forming a community where all of the people have only 3 things in common creates a beautifully diverse group.

I find myself only practically able to develop friendships with moms who are the primary caretaker of their child, and that being a child who is not yet in school. I find that my friends are worried about the health and safety of their kids in this dangerous and polluted city, but are also down to earth and don't panic when they see their child eat dirt or share a sippy cup with their neighbor. This is sometimes all that we have in common, but it is enough.

I attended a women's retreat organized by one of the two English language Protestant churches in Shanghai. Again, 3 things in common. We all live in Shanghai as foreign passport holders - a requirement to attend this church. We are all women, most of us having followed our husbands. Those I became closest to have young children, but that wasn't necessary. Because the 3rd thing is that we are all Christian.

But what amazes me in retrospect is that all being Christian was as far as it went. In America, a gathering of Christian women would not be very diverse. More than likely, all of the women would believe very close to the same things. They would all disapprove of dancing. Or they would all feel uncomfortable openly evangelizing. They would all see value in inter-denominatioal conversation, which would lead to very shallow conversations. Or they would not. You see where I'm going with this.

The women at this conference all had wildly different religious backgrounds. The 65 of us in attendance came from 24 different nations. I am curious how many different religious affiliations would have been represented - probably 65. But it didn't matter at all. No conversations were stilted. No one felt the need to be careful. Preaching was certainly not shallow.

We had our 3 things in common:
1 - Foreign passport holders in Shangi
2 - Women
3 - Christian

That was enough.

This was true diversity, and it was beautiful.

Sunday, April 20, 2008

Blessed Be Your Name

Blessed be your name, i the land that is plentiful,
Where your streams of abundance flow, blessed be your name.
And blessed be your name, when I'm found in the desert place,
Though I walk through the winderness, blessed be Your name.

Every blessing You pour out I'll tur back to praise,
And when the darkness close in, Lord, still I will say,

Blessed be the name of the Lord, blessed be Your name.
Blessed be the name of the Lord, blessed be Your glorious name.

Blessed be Your name when the su's shining down on me,
When the world's all as it shoudl be, blessed be Your name.
And blessed be your name on the road marked with suffering
Though there's pain in the offering, blessed be Your name.

You give and take away, You give and take away,
My heart will choose to say, Lord, blessed be Your name.

Blessed be the name of the Lord, blessed be Your name.
Blessed be the name of the Lord, blessed be Your glorious name.


I attended a Women's Retreat this weekend, hosted by one of the two churches open to English speakers. The church is limited to foreign passport holders, and so the ladies' retreat had a very specific group of women in attendance. I'll admit, I wasn't keen on attending. Church retreats always sounded kinda hokey to me, and I pictured myself surrounded by missionary types who don't cuss or send their kids to public school and almost dreaded the weekend.

It turned out to be exactly what I needed. The speakers were both wonderful, as were all of the ladies I met. Expats are such an interesting group of people. All of us are rich, and all of us are lonely and fight bouts of depression. We have some strong things in common. When we find just a few more things in common, we are bonded as close friends. I made some close friends this weekend, which I hope to stay in touch with for quite some time.

We spent a lot of time in worship, and the speakers let themselves be led by the spirit. I found the retreat quite centering, as we've been without a church home or a small group since we arrived in Shanghai. A few friends and I decided to start a small group for moms on weekday mornings, which I am excited about. I've come to realize that if I truly need something in Shanghai, I may well have to create it. So we are creating a mom's prayer group, and we may end up creating a truly family friendly house church as well.

I write the text of the song because it spoke to me this weekend. But it also spoke to a friend of mine this weekend. And it also spoke to Dave the last time we attended church. We just feel like we're in the desert here sometimes, without anything familiar or loving or Godly nearby. We forget, sometimes, that God is near us and we turn away from praising Him when life becomes difficult. I love that this song reminds us to bless His name through the wilderness, the desset and on the road marked with suffering.

Friday, April 18, 2008

Management Experience

I've never been confident with my management ability. As an employer, I've only managed staff once. I had an intern as a social worker. It didn't go well. I suppose this disinterest in acting as manager may have helped fuel my reticence toward hiring help.

But after my years in China, I'll be able to add "manager" to my resume.

A friend recently asked how our new ayi is doing.

Sabrina: She started just over a month ago, right? How's it coming?

Lynne: Actually, its going kind of downhill lately. I don't know what it is.

Sabrina: Is she getting lazy?

Lynne: Yeah! That sums it up really well! She seems a lot more interested in playing with the girls than in cleaning the house!

Sabrina: Well, I can understand that. I think that happens with everyone. Just time to pull in the reins a bit.

And the more I've thought about it, the more I realize she's right. Other friends with as little ayi experience as I went in with the same expectations. We hoped to be hiring magic elves who quietly entered our homes, made them sparkle, and then disappeared without ever being noticed. I bought a phrasebook specifically made for us with ayis, which bears out this expectation. Rather than translating phrases like please clean the bathroom or can you cook fried rice?, it has phrases like these:

Only enter an occupied room if necessary.

Please eat your lunch in your room.

Talk with respect at all times.

Be honest, always tell the truth.

Take a shower every day and look presentable at all times.

Wash your hair at least 3 times a week.

If an employer spoke to me this way, I would likely quit. Labelled The Ayi Survival Guide, at the very best this books prepares someone for the worst case scenario. But sadly, I fear the motivation is much worse. A showcase of cultural superiority, the book voices how many people speak about their ayis. That they never shower. That they can't be trusted. That they are all that way. Language that smacks of racism and classism.

In reaction to this classist attitude, I hesitated to act as a manager in my home. But then I placed myself in her shoes. If I had showed up at a job for 1 month where no one ever told me what to do, likely I would drift toward spending time with the kids, flipping through magazines and chattering with the adults as well. It seems like a natural human response. My employee needs a manager.

I pulled out an English - Chinese dictionary yesterday to explain a word to her. She took the dictionary and looked at it with wonder. She walked to the window and studied it in the light. She searched for nearly 5 minutes, during which time I waited patiently for what must be something profound that she meant to tell me. She brought the book over and showed me the word laoban.
wo shi ni de laoban, she said. You are my boss.

It seems that the only person uncomfortable with me telling her what to do is myself.

Wednesday, April 16, 2008

Rainy study in Taikang Lu

In an effort to consort with grown-ups, I'm taking a course. Every Wednesday evening I get together with a group of women to work through The Artist's Way. The homework has me reading, writing and making time for independent, creative outings, which has been lovely. I'm also enjoying getting to know the other women in the group. Because a writer needs an audience, I'll be posting these pieces every so often. Feel free to send any constructive thoughts my way.

Its raining.

I mean seriously raining.

The type of rain that leaves you soaked and dripping after a simple run across the lane.

This is meant to be my time alone. My few hours with my thoughts, my creativity and my adopted city. I chose to walk the streets of the art district.

And its raining.

I do not walk. I stand. I watch the rain.

I study it, wondering if maybe it doesn't fall as heavily as it appears. If maybe, if I watch carefully, I will notice a path between the drops.

Something just shot across the lane. Could that be a rat? I have never seen a rat that big. There - it crossed again! Yellow, and its hair looks long and soft, not short or bristly. It looks like a ferret - those smelly animals we kept in cages in our sixth grade classroom. I remember other students letting them crawl in and out of their shirts, but I'd seen them bite those people and I had no interest. There it goes again! The ferret seems to have found that elusive path between the drops.

The heaviness of the rain just dropped one level. I have retreated to a chair just inside the doorway. I can not see the lane, but now I hear scattered clusters of people passing quickly by, probably gathered close under an umbrella and moving together, laughing at their clumsy efforts to stay dry.

I sit in the doorway of an art studio. A collection of art studios, piled up like freshmen dorm rooms in an ugly concrete building. The lighting is fluorescent and not enough, glowing depressingly along the grey walls. The men are not smoking now, but the room still holds the smell of cigarettes.

The rain has been turned down again. A run across the lane would not leave me wet. But what lies across the way? Only a bar, dimly lit in bluish lights. The young staff sometimes come to the doorway to wonder at the rain. One jumps into the falling water, spins happily, then dives back into the dark bar and her friends, all dressed in aprons and sleek dark hair.

Lights are dimming. Voices are slowing outside. I should go.

Frame of Reference

We've come to realize that L--'s frame of reference is quite different from our own. It is a small frame of refrence, of late developed primarily in Shanghai. When visiting Grammy and Grampa in the suburbs of Chicago, we directed her to the garage and quickly realized she had no idea what we were talking about. She didn't even realize it was a room in the house. Sitting on the front stoop at Nana and Papa's house, she counted the "taxis" on the street. It didn't occur to her that these may just be cars, which people leave at their own homes every night.

We note this narrow frame of reference in Shanghai as well. She opened a toy farm and identified all of the new pieces. Most were simple requisites on the knowledge list for a 2-year-old: cow, chicken, horse. But we were surprised to hear her find a motorbike on her farm - it replaced the tractor. We've since added a verse to Old MacDonald.

Old MacDonald had a farm
E - I - E - I - O
And on that farm he had a motorbike
E - I - E - I - O
With a honk! honk! here
And a honk! honk! there
Here a honk!
There a honk!
Everywhere a honk! honk!

Those last few lines are well within our Shanghai frame of reference. In fact, the chorus often runs outside our window late into the night.

Monday, April 14, 2008

Tibet and the Olympics

Our family receives all of our news from The Economist - both the magazine and the online versions. It never fails to amaze me, each time I see it available on a newstand, each time a story on Tibet opens on my computer. I don't know how this magazine has the clout to overcome the Chinese censors, when the government does not even allow guidebooks on China to be sold because they include factual histories of Tibet.

As I said, The Economist is our only source of news. We do not subscribe to the local paper, although there is one available in English. We do not listen to the local news, although CCTV9 does run public broadcasting in English. I did both for a few weeks upon our arrival, but found both laughable. The apparent lack of criticism or open dialogue seemed ridiculous at the time.

The Economist has been running articles on Tibet lately. I get the impression that Tibet has been a presence in world news lately - that I wouldn't know about. One of those articles is included below, about China's reaction to recent protests for Tibet.

The interesting dynamic to this entire conflict is that the people of China may well have no idea that any of this is happening. Chinese people have been told that Tibetans are much better off, that the government is bringing schools and hospitals, teachers and doctors, roads and engineers to their land and helping to develop their people. The Chinese people do not understand why the Tibetans should be so ungrateful.

But further. The Olympics is to be a grand display of China, the display that this country has regained its rightful and historical place as a world leader. There is great pride among Chinese nationals about the upcoming Olympics.

Match together these three dynamics. Most people are:
1 - Lacking factual information about the situation in Tibet;
2 - Filled with pride surrounding the upcoming Olympics;
3 - Completely oblivious to the world's disapproval.

Rather than a great show of power, this Olympics could be a massive loss of face for this country. In China, nothing is worse than a loss of face.


http://www.economist.com/daily/news/displaystory.cfm?story_id=11003821&fsrc=nwl

Tibet and the Olympics: A flaming row
Apr 9th 2008 from Economist.com

IT IS still four months before athletes gather in Beijing for the
Olympics, but already the games are embroiled in controversy as protests grow
over human-rights abuses in Tibet. The immediate concern for China’s government
and for the international Olympic movement is that preparations for a showcase
sporting event are being disrupted by political confrontation, which could lead
to protests or boycotts of the games themselves. The pressing desire for
pro-independence campaigners in Tibet, where an ongoing crackdown by Chinese
authorities has claimed more lives in recent weeks, is to take advantage of the
opportunity to garner world attention for their cause.


Gradually the voices speaking out about Tibet are growing louder. On
Wednesday April 9th Australia’s prime minister, Kevin Rudd, a friend of China
and fluent Mandarin speaker on his first trip to the country since taking
office, used a speech to students in Peking University to talk of “significant
human-rights problems” in the region. He called, too, for dialogue between
China’s government and the spiritual leader of Tibet, the Dalai Lama.

Mr
Rudd’s comments followed days of protests in Athens, London, Paris and San
Francisco, as the Olympic torch was taken on a world tour to promote the Beijing
games. As the Olympic flame was carried through those cities, guarded by
thuggish-looking security guards in blue tracksuits, it quickly became the focus
for criticism of China over its repressive rule in Tibet. Police in London
arrested three dozen Tibet-independence campaigners as the celebrities and
athletes carrying the flame were hidden behind a phalanx of guards. In Paris a
giant banner was hung from the Eiffel Tower showing the five Olympic rings as
handcuffs, another adorned Notre Dame cathedral. Police again made several
arrests. President Nicolas Sarkozy called the parade “a bit sad”. It is becoming
worse than that: an embarrassment to both China and to the Olympic movement.

Olympic officials would now like to abandon the rest of the flame’s
world tour, foreseeing that protests are likely to worsen. Already in San
Francisco, where the parade continues on Wednesday, protesters have strung
banners from the Golden Gate Bridge. Nastier and perhaps bloodier demonstrations
might come elsewhere, for example when the flame reaches Delhi, in India, or
possibly in Canberra, Australia.

China has the power to ease the unfolding public-relations disaster.
One step would be to cancel the rest of the torch’s international tour. More
substantial would be to scrap the parading of the torch in Tibet—something seen
as intensively insensitive by Tibetans who consider China’s rule to be
oppression by a foreign power. More substantial yet would be for China’s
government to allow more democratic freedoms, including peaceful protests, in
Tibet and elsewhere.

Instead China’s leaders, in public at least, perhaps not grasping how
quickly dismay over the Olympics is growing, are refusing to bend. The
Beijing-backed governor of Tibet, Qiangba Puncog, has said that the torch will
still be brought to Tibet and has given warning that any who try to obstruct its
progress face “severe” punishment.

The official media have portrayed the disruptions in London and Paris
as marginal displays of discontent by violent activists amid overwhelming shows
of support. A state television report aired a brief comment by Paula Radcliffe,
a British marathon runner, in which she endorsed the importance of the
protesters’ cause while condemning their methods. The Chinese subtitle, however,
mistranslated her remarks such that the endorsement was removed. The sinister
torch-protection team has been called “valiant and heroic” by China’s media.
Official reports say the squad is composed of officers from the People’s Armed
Police who have been training for this role since last August.

The problem for China, however, is that public protests could grow in
the coming weeks and lead to boycotts of the games themselves—or at least of the
opening ceremony. Hillary Clinton, a Democratic contender for the presidency in
America, now says that George Bush should stay away. Mr Sarkozy says he will
wait to decide whether to travel. Growing public anger, stoked by protests along
the torch’s route, could make the Olympics a bigger trial for China’s government
than it had bargained for.

Saturday, April 12, 2008

Asian Dolls

A frequent compliment L-- receives is that she looks like a doll. With her blonde hair and blue eyes, she has a bit of a model appearance and so we thought nothing of it. Until we realized that all of the dolls for sale in Asia - for that matter, most of the dolls for sale around the world - have light skin, blonde hair and blue eyes.

People are being quite literal when they tell L-- that she looks like a doll.

Their children do not look like dolls.

A friend living in Shanghai is now searching shops in America to find a doll that looks like her Asian children. Asian dolls are not for sale in China.

Friday, April 11, 2008

Free International Calls

A connection alerted me to the service mentioned below. We'd be amenable to trying, if anyone is interested. As a reminder, we are set up on Skype and always happy to video conference with anyone.

i recently discovered an alternative to skype for making overseascalls, and thought i'd share the info.
you and your network of people you talk with often sign up for free and register your phone numbers (including mobiles) and then you can make up to 250 minutes of free calls a week to the members in yourcontact list. if you go over the 250 minutes, or if you call someone not registered - then it's a minimal cost per minute (3.8 cents U.S.). i'm loving it - because now i don't have to be tethered to my computerto make free calls to the u.s. and i can also call if i'm out, on my mobile.

Thursday, April 10, 2008

The Next Step

The Wonder Center's acceptance of L--, and our subsequent acceptance of The Wonder Center, means inherently that we will move within the next few months.

The school is over an hour away from us in traffic. We live on opposite sides of the river, and the commute requires riding through a notoriously congested tunnel. Waiting for the tunnel alone is over half of the commute - the distance is only about 10 km.

So I looked at apartments yesterday. We're considering 3 locations, and none of them is perfect. Worse, none of them takes the advantages of our current location and builds upon them. We will lose either walkability or expat community, both of which I rather rely upon in our current home.

I fear for myself with this move. The largest struggle for me so far has been finding a community. After 7 months, I feel completely at home here and with a community that I enjoy and fit in comfortably within. I fear moving and having to build one again, especially with unknown bars to grasp onto. The complexes I like the most had no playgrounds, no Activity Box nearby. Where will we meet people?

I am excited about the prospect of a new home, and a wonderful new area to explore. Living across the river will without a doubt be a more interesting place to live, with loads of nooks and crannies, shops and restaurants to explore. But I fear for myself and my loneliness.

Perhaps its time to update the prayer request. Since God has shown it is His intention for L-- to attend this school, let us rest assured that He has a full plan for where we will live and how we will live as well.

Managing a Staff

I'm getting used to managing a personal staff. The driver has been a no-brainer. I love having someone drive me around. I don't worry about traffic at all - I hardly even notice it. I never turn around yelling pipe down! or keep your hands to yourself! because I'm fully part of the back seat exchange with the girls. We snack, we tell stories, we look out the window together. We have no music to listen to, but no one else in Shanghai seems to have music playing either - we often listen to the neighboring car's cell phone conversation rather than their music. Telling him what time to work and when he has off is no problem for me, and otherwise I let him run his own show. I'm no micromanager.

But with the ayi, its a bit more difficult. I once said that if having an ayi is like living with my mom, than it must be fantastic. Amusingly, it is very much like living with my mom. She doesn't do what I tell her to, but what she does do is often better than my suggestion in the first place. So I've generally no complaints. Minor frustrations at not being in control, but no complaints.

Tonight we left the girls with her. This for the first time. I woke up last night in a cold sweat - how can we leave our children with her? I was not so nervous when I woke naturally in the light of day. She's a mother herself - how bad can it be?

We walked into the house at 10:30 at night. Remnants of dinner still covered the table, and our ayi was nowhere to be seen.

Why didn't she clean up after dinner? I mean, she is the ayi!

Where is she?

Oh my gosh. Did she just leave? Just put the kids to bed, and then go home?

I checked to make sure her shoes were still by the door, in a bit of a panic.

Then she walked out of the guest room, where she had lain down with L--. It seems that L-- didn't want to go to bed by herself, and Xiao Wang laid down by her to comfort her. What a wonderful ayi we have! And how wonderful that L-- was comforted by her presence. We were instantly comforted as well. She began cleaning up from dinner, and we hurried her home.

What we didn't say was that we were happy to leave the dishes in the sink until she returns tomorrow afternoon.

Monday, April 07, 2008

Hiroshima

3:00 contrary to past experience, the whole family was packed and jacketed and shoed and ready to go thirty minutes prior to

3:30 we were packing the van and buckling the girls into their car seats and headed off to the airport to begin our journey when

3:45 I want LoveyBear.

Oh no!

I didn't pack LoveyBear. Should we go back? If we go back, will we make our flight? We're only 15 minutes in, but that's 45 minutes lost. She won't sleep the entire weekend if we don't go back for that bear. Hui jia! Hui jia! Return home! Return home! we exhorted our confused driver. He must have said to us, I thought we were going to the airport? I thought you had a flight to catch? Hui jia! Hui jia! We spoke in panicked, urgent voices in an attempt to communicate the problem as he turned the van around and headed back through the slow traffic to

4:00 pulling up in front of our building. I slammed open the door, raced into the lobby, through the doors, and stood quietly waiting for the elevator. I could practically hear the elevator music mocking my lack of speed. It arrived as a pack of youngsters getting off of school, each slowly piling on to the waiting elevator, and then disembarking on separate floors with long good-byes and promises to meet at the playground.

4:02 I raced into the apartment, turned it upside down searching for the bear, and raced back down to the van. Holding up the bear with a wry look on my face, our driver showed an expression of final understanding and took off with speed toward the airport once again.

Unfortunately, this is not the end.

5:19 we arrived at the check-in counter.

5:20 the sign above the counter read Osaka check-in closed. The people behind the counter never spoke to us, and only spoke to each other in Chinese. There seemed to be a problem, but they were not interested in letting us in on the secret.

5:40 we raced away from the counter, pushed ourselves through security, and ran to the gate. Where we stood for 5, 10, 15, 20 minutes - ready to be called and boarded at any minute, because they had exhorted us to hurry!

6:05 we boarded the bus to drive us out to our airplane, neatly parked in the middle of the tarmac. And finally we were off.

A simple 1-1/2 hour flight from Shanghai to Osaka. We ate our picnic dinner, read stories, crawled over the seats and were there.

The last people to leave the plane, we wondered where our gate-checked strollers had landed. Apparently China Eastern Airlines has a policy of not returning strollers to where they have been checked.

We did our best to guide our walking toddlers through the arrival hall, quarantine, and immigration where we would meet our strollers. Much akin to herding two kittens up a hill, after sitting on a plane for 90 minutes they were full of energy and curiosity. And this being entirely civilized Japan, we were chastised and made to clean up any messes they made.

None of our ATM cards would work.

We missed the train into town.

We could not afford the nearly US$200 taxi into town.

We had incorrect directions for the bus into town.

We finally found the bus, beginning an hour long journey with 2 young ones at 10:30 at night. The arrival at what turned out to be a very nice hotel was sweet, although expensive.

And so our weekend in Japan began.. Luckily, it got much better. The weather remained beautiful the entire visit, with the sun shining brightly and a light breeze blowing cherry blossoms to the ground everywhere we went. We picnicked under the cherry trees amongst the other revelers in Osaka, and then jumped the bullet train to Hiroshima for the remainder of the weekend.

The first sight of a nuclear holocaust, Hiroshima is a wonderfully green and vibrant city. A city dedicated to peace, the mayors send a letter of protest every time a nation conducts nuclear tests. The tragedy of the nuclear explosion was immense, and the museum documented it in gruesome and horrifying detail. On the fence in my opinion about the justness of nuclear weaponry, I am now fully convinced that this is a horrifying way to torture and then kill innocent civilians. We pondered that although conventions of war decry the inclusion of civilians in warfare, it seems to happen in most conflicts, and always in an appaling manner. I am currently reading What is the What by Dave Eggers, a retelling of one of the Lost Boys' of Sudan's journey through war and refugee camps. The horrors described in both wars are wildly different from each other, and both quite literally unimaginable to me. But these questions of war and justice disappeared in the museum's peaceful surroundings.

Hiroshima is a city of parks, rivers and public places. Fitting over 1 million people into a rather tight space would make many spaces seems cramped, but Hiroshima has no such feeling. We arrived in the midst of sakura, a Japanese tradition of socializing under the fading cherry blossoms with your family and friends and celebrating life. Underneath every tree was a blue tarp covered with adults and children around a bbq grill nibbling and drinking and enjoying the beautiful weather.

Apparently when the nuclear bomb fell in Hiroshima, experts predicted that nothing would grow there for 75 years. That was 50 years ago, and the hypocenter is now a green park covered with flowers and trees, bushes and cherry blossoms. Locals picnicked in this park just like any other. And this is the perfect vision of Hiroshima, in my mind. A city ravaged by war, recovered through parks and picnics and the love of peace. A profound recovery, and a beautiful place to spend the weekend.

By the end of the trips, our credit cards and ATMs had worked more often than not and we had never had to wash dishes for our meals. We made every bus, train, streetcar and airplane's scheduled departure times and rarely waited more than a few minutes. The hectic beginning to our trip quickly receded into an amusing day of travel, fading away from the memory of a lovely weekend spent outside in Hiroshima.

Upon Our Return

We left Japan this afternoon, a wonderfully (possibly over-) civilized country alive with cherry blossoms and picnicing revelers. We returned to filthy Shanghai, full of people pushing each other, spitting and pee-ing on the sidewalk, and blowing exhaust in your face. It was a bit disheartening.

But then we opened our email.

Answered Prayer - L-- has been accepted into The Wonder Center!

Thank you to each of you for praying, and thanks to God who may have restored my faith in the power of prayer.

More details will be forthcoming, but I wanted to get this out to you ASAP.

Wednesday, April 02, 2008

A Few Updates

The Wonder Center - I've contacted the teacher, and she plans to send out notifications next week. Please keep this on your prayer lists until then!

FaceBook - A new friend invited me to join Facebook and be one of her friends. I've not been particularly interested in joining online networking communities, but decided that in the interest of furthering this burgeoning friendship, I would join. And oh my goodness, what a find! It seems that everyone I know is in Facebook! Its as if Christopher Columbus landed in the Americas and discovered that most of his pals from high school had been there for years! Do feel free to add me as your friend, but I'm finding that the site works wildly slowly so forgive me if I'm slow or strainge in response to you.

Travel Plans - This Friday is China's Tomb Sweeping Day, a traditional festival newly made into a national holiday. With the day off of work, we are traveling. About 2 weeks ago, we decided to head toward Kyoto, Japan and experience the wonders of their cherry blossoms in full bloom. We bought the rather expensive, non-refundable tickets and then began searching for a hotel room. Apparently, we are not the only people desiring to view Japan's national flower blooming for only 2 weeks in its most beautiful city. Quite literally, not one room is available in Kyoto or the surrounding cities. Hiroshima is only a few hour ride away on the bullet train, so Thursday through Monday will see our family in Japan.

Upon our return, I hope to have updates on most of these updates.

Happy Tomb Sweeping Day!

Tuesday, April 01, 2008

Wondering about The Wonder Center

To refresh your memories, I hope for L-- to begin school this fall. I looked at many schools in our area, and found only one that met my qualifications. Those qualifications are 1: small class size, 2: part-time, 3: mixed-age class with L-- one of the youngest children, 4: focus on learning through play. The first three qualifications I feel are necessary for my specific daughter to thrive in a group environment - she is becoming fiercely shy. The last I feel is important, for my daughter no more or less than any child.

I felt discouraged until I found The Wonder Center. I love the teacher and I love the school. Another qualification is that L-- must have a short commute to school each morning, and I am willing to move for us to meet this qualification in this school.

I put all of my eggs in The Wonder Center's basket, applying to only one school. This is a very small school - currently under 20 students. The teacher seeks a balanced classroom, with an appropriate mix of ages, first languages and learning abilities. Even though she was still accepting applications when I put mine in, I don't expect this school to accept children on a first-come first-served basis.

And it has now been a few weeks since I have heard anything.

I am growing nervous, sometimes waking at night thinking about this.

If L-- is not accepted into The Wonder Center, I worry about her social skills developing appropriately. She currently spends most of her playtime with children a year or more younger than her, because the older children we know are all in school full-time. She is becoming more withdrawn in social settings. She is a sparkling, bright, imaginative and loving little girl and I want to see her learn to show these traits to other people.

Please add this to your prayer list:
- that L-- be accepted to The Wonder Center
- that if L-- is not accepted to The Wonder Center, that we can trust that God has a good alternative planned for her